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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Rachel Dixon

Let’s go to … Leicester

Approaching the final act? A portrait of Richard III inside Leicester Cathedral.
Approaching the final act? A portrait of Richard III inside Leicester Cathedral. Photograph: Alamy

Why go now?
Britain’s longest-running comedy festival, a 19-day extravaganza at more than 50 venues across the city, kicks off on 4 February. As well as the big-name acts at the Curve, Leicester’s impressive modern theatre (Dylan Moran, Jimmy Carr, Johnny Vegas), quirkier events include the UK Pun Championships, stand-up in the dark, and a secret comedy tour (three surprise shows in one night).

What if I’m not that into comedy …
How about history? The city has gone monarch-mad after Richard III’s bones were found under a car park in 2012. There is a new Richard III visitor centre; statues, sculptures and walking trails; and the cathedral is being renovated ahead of his reburial there on 26 March, in a ceremony that will be shown live on Channel 4.

Anything else?

New walk museum, Leicester, UK.
Find expression at New Walk Museum and Art Gallery. Photograph: Alamy

Leicester has the largest collection of German expressionism in the UK, which you can see at the New Walk Museum and Art Gallery, located on a 230-year-old scenic walkway. The same museum also has a brilliant collection of Picasso ceramics, donated by local scion Richard Attenborough.

Must be about time for a pint
There are plenty of real-ale pubs – Camra’s guide lists 27 in the city centre, including the Ale Wagon, a no-frills 1930s boozer. If bohemian bars are more your thing, the Exchange and Manhattan 34, both on Rutland Street, are laid-back and serve great cocktails (try the former’s tangerine dream).

What’s cooking?

Leicester curry houses: a taste of little India – video

The Golden Mile (Belgrave Road and Melton Road) is justly renowned for its curry houses, but for something a little different, try Kayal on Granby Street, which serves cracking Keralan cuisine. The White Peacock is good for special occasions: the fusion food might include sea bass and tempura prawn with coriander and lime gnocchi, though menus change monthly (from £20 for two courses to £45 for an eight-course tasting menu).

Anywhere to stay for less than £100 a night?
Of course! The pick of the hotels is Maiyango, a 14-room boutique with sleek wooden furniture, splashes of rich colours and fabrics, and Cowshed toiletries. It began life as a restaurant before adding rooms, and serves some fine food – don’t miss the scallops and pork belly with fiery XO sauce – including vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free tasting menus. The 75-room Belmont is a good backup option, although it looks a little dated in comparison. Both hotels have doubles from £79.

Do I need a car to get there?
Leicester has excellent rail connections from north to south and cross country. The fastest trains from London St Pancras (terminating at Sheffield) take just over an hour, and it is an hour from Birmingham (eastmidlandstrains.co.uk). The city centre is small and perfectly walkable – if you reach the ring road, you’ve gone too far.

More information at goleicestershire.com

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