Why Ipswich?
OK, so it isn’t the first place in Suffolk that springs to mind for a weekend away. Ipswich is somewhat overshadowed by prettier neighbours Aldeburgh, Southwold and Lowestoft, but this ancient town has some great modern attractions.
So what can I do?
Stroll around the redeveloped docks on the river Orwell. The waterfront is now home to the university, the Jerwood DanceHouse, a few bistros and cafes, and the town’s best hotel, the flamboyantly decorated Salthouse Harbour (doubles from £123 a night). Its restaurant is strong on seafood – try the scallops and the risotto. St Peter’s Street is good for shopping, with independent vintage, homeware and gift shops. The Ancient House is an incredible 15th-century building with pargeting and wood carving (though today it houses a branch of Lakeland). The Ipswich Museum (free) is in a leafy part of town and has a great natural history collection (including Wool.i.am, a huge replica woolly mammoth). Christchurch Mansion (free) has a good collection of Constables and Gainsboroughs – both local lads – and is in a lovely park; look out for the colourful mandarin ducks.
Anywhere good to eat?
Students hang out at the Cult Cafe on the docks, which serves gourmet fast food for about £6: posh hotdogs or poutines (cheesy chips) with pulled pork. The Brewery Tap is good for Sunday lunch.
And the best pubs?
The down-to-earth Dove Street Inn has a fantastic selection of real ales and runs regular beer festivals. The lively Thomas Wolsey is more central, in a building that dates from the 17th century.
Anywhere to stay for under £100 a night?
Holidaylettings.co.uk/ipswich has a few self-catering options, including an apartment sleeping two from £56 a night, or a cute cottage with roses over the door, from £51 per night for two.
Do I need a car?
No – there are hourly trains from Norwich, Cambridge and greater Suffolk, three trains an hour from London, and the town centre is tiny.
