Though with a shrinked canvas, Hermès artisans can still do wonders on the small dials of Arceau and Slim d'Hermès watches. The micro-leather work artistically renders miniaturised animal motifs, previously featured in other luxurious items by the Paris-based maison.
Founded in 1837, Hermès was originally a maker of equestrian products, and so horses have long been an emblematic animal.
A horse profile on Hermès Robe du Soir silk scarf designed by Florence Manlik in 2018 has been transferred to the face of a rose gold Arceau, available in 12 pieces as limited numbered editions.
No less than 3,500 tesserae are finely cut from carefully selected full-grain calfskin, and subsequently 2,200 tiny leather squares are selected and meticulously assembled as a multi-coloured motif on the dial of the Arceau Robe du Soir watch.
Crafting the leather mosaic requires an exclusive technique developed and mastered over a year-and-a-half by Hermès artisans. Several weeks and patience in executing the technique result in the delicate work of art set against an electric blue backdrop.
The leather-making heritage is also expressed as marquetry in white gold Arceau Cavales, fashioned in Hermès red or indigo blue versions, each available in six pieces.
Full-grain calfskin leather pieces are split to a thickness of around 0.5mm, before each element is accurately cut to its appointed size and shape. The artisan picks up these fragments, one by one, and fits them on the dial to form the pattern inspired by the "Samarcande" chess set created in 2009.
It takes six hours to place the many-hued pieces into a patchwork reminiscent of slim poppy petals for one version, and a stylised camouflage pattern for the other, with the Cavales motif symmetrically occupying the dial centre. The meticulous process is comparable to assembling a watch movement.
A mechanical self-winding movement manufactured by Hermès drives the Arceau Robe du Soir and Arceau Cavales models, housed in a 41mm case with asymmetrical lugs inspired by stirrups.
Leather marquetry as well as champlevé and miniature enamelling techniques are showcased in the Slim d'Hermès Les Zèbres de Tanzanie watch, with colourful stripes composed of hand-fitted leather inlays, enhancing the profile of the painted creature.
The design was created in 2010 by Yves-Marie de Malleray, known for conveying the beauty of nature through art.
Miniaturising the motif involves several steps. The dial is filled with layers of white enamel, interspersed with drying periods and firings in the oven. It is then hand-polished before stripes are applied using an extremely fine brush and enamel powders mixed with natural essences.
After 26 hours of enamelling and leather marquetry, the motif takes shape in contrasting matte and gloss surfaces on the dial, framed by the 39.5mm white gold case with right-angled lugs.
A limited numbered edition of 12 pieces, Slim d'Hermès Les Zèbres de Tanzanie is equipped with Manufacture Hermès H1950 ultra-thin mechanical self winding movement.
