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Chicago Tribune
Chicago Tribune
Lifestyle
JeanMarie Brownson

Langoustine, lobster and crab � oh my: Summer living requires seafood

Sun and seafood. The combination always boosts our souls. Little wonder we travel to water-rimmed places such as Florida to jumpstart our spirits. This spring, we plan to start our warm weather entertaining out on our deck with chilled wine and seafood-based dishes inspired by our travels.

A sunny day lunch at Eaton Street Seafood Market & Restaurant in Key West filled our heads with warm weather entertaining ideas. We swooned over their version of a lobster roll sandwich, ranking it the best of our lives. Sweet, tender lobster meat barely held together with mayonnaise arrives tucked into a toasted sweet bun. Sure, this is picnic fare at Eaton Street, where diners eat from paper-lined baskets on folding chairs under an awning. However, the combination of indulgent seafood, a creamy binder sauce and buttery toast makes this handheld stunner worthy of nearly every occasion.

For easy, stand-up eating at a cocktail party, I make toasted seafood rolls from thickly sliced brioche bread and serve them cut into quarters while the toast is warm. Alternatives for the brioche include challah, egg twist bread or Pullman loaf. Open-face sandwiches, garnished with fresh dill, appeal as well.

Because lobster proves pricey and labor intensive, I think a combination of tender shrimp, sweet langoustine tails and tinned lump crab make a superb filling. This combination seafood salad also tastes great served on spears of Belgian endive or in little lettuce cups for lighter eating.

Langoustine tails, usually sold fully cooked and frozen, offer a sweetness similar to lobster and a tenderness similar to crab. Simply thaw them overnight in the refrigerator and drain before using. Pre-cooked shrimp tends to be unpleasantly rubbery. So, for the best-textured shrimp, I prefer frozen uncooked shrimp. I can thaw it at my convenience and cook it briefly so it stays tender.

Less rich, but equally delicious, seafood party fare includes crispy fish and crunchy slaw tostadas. Crisp corn tostadas, sold in plastic bags at the local tortilleria, are great for hand-held appetizers. You can assemble the tostadas at the last minute or let guests assemble their own. Another option is to serve the sauteed fish and slaw tucked in a small tortilla or warmed pita pocket.

As always, when purchasing seafood, take the time to know its provenance. Shop at stores that sell fish from suppliers that are well managed and who catch or farm fish in ways that cause little harm to habitats or other wildlife. It's better for you and better for the planet.

Fresh herbs hold the key to springtime freshness in both of these recipes. My suburban Chicago garden won't yield many herbs for at least another month. Until then, I rely on the herbs growing in the AeroGarden my son gave me. I'm happy to report that this appliance is worthy of the counter space; I've been snipping fresh dill (some days it grows 2 or 3 inches overnight), basil, thyme and parsley all winter and spring. It's supremely satisfying while the outdoor herb garden takes off.

While it's nearly impossible to guarantee sun for your springtime parties, good, freshly prepared seafood offerings make any gathering feel brighter.

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