La Vie En J.P.

If an Englishman's home is his castle, a Frenchman's bistro is his salon. At least that's the recipe J.P. French's convivial cap-wearing culinary impresario Jean-Pierre Thiaville dishes up to devastating effect amid the over-supplied environs of mid-Sukhumvit 31. Just as it should be: the personality and presence of the owner is the secret of success.

After an initial foray with Le Jardin in Thonglor, in August 2012, the Parisian 34-year Bangkok veteran rejected retirement again to instead create JP French bistro-brasserie and coddles the project personally all six evenings a week (closed Sunday), though less so the also popular lunchtimes.

"It's my way of staying connected," he says eyes fixed on the front door as another cosmopolitan couple arrives for their dinner date.

After all, with its plush red, white and stone décor and splashy modern art, the ambiance is rather romantic, give or take a framed rugby jersey or ten. Beyond the small entrance porch is a high-ceiling chandelier-lit definitive brasserie with the kitchen poking through a pizza oven-like aperture. Climb the stairs to the mezzanine and it's all bordello-red velvet, crisp white cotton and 'très amusant' monochrome prints.

Such opulence does not, however, upstage selections from the a la carte and weekly-changing specials menus, nor the modest but impeccable cellar.

Despite the accent on French, J.P. 'steaks' his reputation on an English signature dish: individual portions of Beef Wellington, aka 'boeuf en croûte' (1,250 - all prices net), prime Australian 240-days grain-fed tenderloin – 'for me the best' –  coated with champignon mushroom, baked in puff pastry, sliced open and served with foie gras sauce and sautéed potatoes 'sarladaises'. Actually, the fragrant beef and saucy sauce that enhances rather than smothers the meat is quintessentially French.  You can add blue cheese to that if you wish and a glass of Bordeaux (210/240-glass) would not go amiss (Chardonnay is 190/glass, 580 carafe).

That's after the pour commencer, this time delightful canapes of herbed tomato on baguette medallions alternately topped with ham and shrimp.

Also after an appetizer such as homemade foie gras (710), herbed and pressed into neat slabs sumptuously complemented with thick-cut onion jam, sea salt, butter, baguette and toast.

Or lobster bisque (310), charcuterie plate (490), fisherman's salad (460), or salmon tartare. Or classic frog's legs (370), escargot (380), or gratinated scallops/hollandaise sauce (480). Not to mention pan-fried foie gras/caramelized peach (750), etc.

J.P.'s Boeuf Bourgignon, beef cheeks ultra-slow-cooked in Bordeaux, melts in the mouth.

Also popular among the mains is Côte de Boeuf (1300gm – 3,500) for two with complimentary  sauces and sides. As is classic beef tartare with French fries (620) and tenderloin (1150).

Beef is big on the menu but there's also Millefeuille de Canard, alternate layers of French duck and foie gras, lamb rack with wallnuts and rosemary sauce (940), tuna a la pancha, and salmon steak (630). Even pasta with white wine, garlic and tomato (380).

Desserts go for quality, with four selections plus ice cream. The zing of nougatine and tart raspberry coulis, embellished with crunchy nuts and caramel and al dente dried fruits, make Nougat Glace (240) a strong competitor with chocolate mousse, crème brûlée and fondant au chocolate.

It's top notch French fare cheerfully orchestrated by Chef Chang who J.P. hails as the best Thai French chef in Bangkok.

At 399 baht net, set lunch including choice of starter and main dish plus dessert, coffee or tea, is a perfect entrée to this timeless France cuisine perfectly presented.

Free parking at Young Place.

J.P. French Restaurant + Bar. 59/1 Sukhumvit Soi Sawasdee. Tel. 02 258 4247/081 866 9403
Facebook: JP French Restaurant