The path to success in the restaurant business is paved with potholes. But when you can call home one of the sexiest spaces in the city, the rooftop at the urban village that is Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen Park, bingo!
Add to the spectacular L37 address in Sukhumvit 22 the cult status of maverick Korean-born, Colorado-raised, Las Vegas-quickened chef Akira Back, trailing 10 restaurants, and kudos oozes.
40-something former snowboarder and executive chef of Nobu Matsuhisa's Aspen restaurant, and owner of Michelin-starred DOSA in Seoul, Back has developed a global reputation with his popular Yellowtail Japanese Restaurant & Lounge at the Bellagio Resort & Casino in Las Vegas, where Paris Hilton, Fergie and the Olsens are wont to dine. Other outposts range New Delhi, Toronto, Dallas, Jakarta, Singapore, Dubai and here.
Opened last December, Akira Back Bangkok is one level below ABar Rooftop, an also well-starred gin-focused rooftop bar, and opposite A Bar, a roomy Sherlock Holmes-themed, games-equipped space with cigar terrace.
Punctuated with modern abstracts by Back's artist mother, the restaurant's brightly-lit arched interior picks up the amber-cream of Japanese rice paper walls strung with Shinto rope. Glass-smooth grey and white marble counters line the live sushi bar and omakase kitchen facing across an aisle leading to the main and private dining rooms.
“Back” to black semi-circular plates comprise the place settings and dishes feature more of Back's mother's handiwork.
Recipes reflect Back's cultural heritage and personal journey enhanced with others evolved in cohorts with the resident chefs; Yoon, William, Anang. Affable manager Charles-Henri engages and elucidates.
Setting the tenor for the deftly-differentiated dining experience is Tuna Pizza (430), Back's best-seller. Carpaccio-thin sashimi-grade tuna slivers pasted with umami aioli and ponzu-infused mayo, dressed in aromatic white truffle oil and micro shiso is smoothed over a biscuit-crisp golden crust shipped from Vegas. Addictive.
Jeju domi (380), red snapper sashimi rolled with chojang, spicy-sweet red chilli sauce, topped with orange flying fish tobikko roe is the dish that that first turned the young Back onto raw fish.
AB Tacos (340) present four taco-shaped wanton shells filled with wagyu Bulgogi (Korean ragu) with roasted tomato ponzu sauce. Superb.
Sous-vide tenderised Jidori Chicken (490) is rolled over silky-smooth potato puree coarsened with fried garlic, contrasted with another homemade teriyaki sauce.
Equally unmistakably AB is josper-grilled salmon steak (430), under spicy teriyaki sauce and nori seaweed rice cracker, over garlic-infused spinach.
“Perfect Storm” (410) offers shrimp tempura roll wrapped with spicy tuna and salmon belly aburi, slaked with chipotle mayo.
Hirame Carpaccio (480) comprises white flounder fish in a shallow sea of sweet nanbanzu sauce.
Clearly Korean are scallops slathered with bacon and garlic kimchi.
And for dessert? Honey-Coconut Panacotta arrives in a jar sealed with a raspberry crisp that supports a scoop of Madagascar vanilla ice cream. Bash the crisp and as the ice cream crashes onto the fresh raspberry, strawberry, kiwi, blueberry and crunch over the creamy panacotta, make a wish and listen for pops.
Also Asia-oriented is Hawaiian-style coconut-butter mochi (160) with salted caramel popcorn, mango sorbet and caramelized macadamia. Seriously delish. As is AB's Madagascar Manjari vanilla Valrhona chocolate lava soufflé (190) served in a brass saucepan, with also Madagascan vanilla ice cream.
The full gamut of alcohol is at your disposal, including craft beers from Japan, Korean, America and rare sakes. Yuzu Sour (360) - yuzu, vodka and Akira's own branded sake - is signature.
Forget fusion aversion, it's all simply a matter of (very) good taste.
Dinner: 18.00 - 23.00 hrs. Sunday lunch: 12.00 - 14.30 hrs.
