Want to truly get away from it all? Why not escape to Denmark’s unsung island of Funen and the diminutive seaside town of Kerteminde, where nature is the main attraction and life is lived at a gentler pace.
Located at the entrance to Kerteminde Fjord near the island’s northwest corner this is a town that looks firmly towards the sea. Its centre is dominated by the large harbour, with some 700 berths for everything from fishing boats to luxury yachts, while the coastline that seems to stretch in all directions from the town is lined with pristine beaches.
The most popular of these is Kerteminde north beach, a blue flag rated beach with waters shallow enough that even the smallest of adults can wade out for a hundred metres or more before even feeling the water around their waist. This, combined with the mini golf, refreshment kiosk and constant presence of a lifeguard, make Kerteminde north the perfect place for families to relax too.
Swimmers though, should head to Kerteminde south beach where the water deepens far quicker and the only facility is the car park – you won’t have much company here. Locals favour Male Strand, a few miles north up the coast from town. Its secluded location makes this ideal for those seeking to escape and it’s not just the crowds you might shed here, clothes frequently are as well.
As well as its beaches, this coast is also known for its fertile fishing spots. Book a local fishing guide and Niklas or Joe will take you out to the best places to catch your supper. They can even arrange tackle if you need it.
Away from the coast Kerteminde has plenty to offer too. The town is known as the “garden by the sea” and there is certainly plenty of forest and parkland to explore. Head to Lungsgaard for a walk through woodland at the water’s edge or take a stroll around the edge of the stately Hverringe Gods manor house, which dates from the late 18th century.
The painter Johannes Larsen is perhaps Kerteminde’s most famous son, and his home and studio are now open to the public as the Johannes Larsen Museet. You’ll want to allow half a day to discover this high quality museum, which remains much as it was when Larsen and his wife Alhed lived here. Their paintings still hang on the walls around the house and workshop, including in the living room where numerous leading painters, writers and architects of the 20th century were entertained by the couple. Don’t miss the windmill in the gardens for views over the north beach and the Great Belt, which separates Funen from the island of Sealand opposite.
Kerteminde is also an ideal base for trips to the Viking ship at Ladby, just to the southwest of town, and to the uninhabited island of Romso offshore.
The Ladby ship is Denmark’s only ship grave and is a fascinating and eerie sight. This was the final resting place of a Viking chieftain, buried in his ship around the year 925, beneath a burial mound. Though later plundered for the treasure it held, the ship can still be seen as an imprint in the mound, and you can see the original anchor as well as the skulls of sacrificed horses and dogs.
Make time too for Romso, taking the Romso-Baden boat across for the day to enjoy the solitude of a carless island with no residents besides the deer, rabbits and birds you’re sure to see as you walk the coastal trails here. Now that’s truly getting away from it all.
Opodo has flights to Denmark from £30. Visit opodo.co.uk for more information and to book.
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