KAINAKARY: This weekend around 20 wooden boats, 100-foot long and powered by about 100 rowers each, will slice through Kerala's backwaters to compete for the most prestigious trophy in the centuries-old sport of "vallam kali", or snake boat racing.
Thousands will cheer on from the shore and houseboats as the slender vessels, whose raised sterns give them a cobra-like appearance, race for village pride on a 1.4 km course at Punnamada Lake.
As well as the splashing of hundreds of oars hitting the water in unison over 90 times per minute, the rowing is accompanied by a cacophony of chants and whistles as well as the thunderous beat of thick wooden poles pounding on the deck.
The Alappuzha district, which used to be known as the rice bowl of Kerala because of the proliferation of paddy fields, contains some of the lowest lying land in India and is prone to flooding during the monsoon rains.
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But while most villagers check the swollen Pamba River each monsoon morning with trepidation, Vakkachan Theverkkat sees opportunity -- another chance to train his roster of 150-odd rowers.
Vakkachan is a former senior oarsman with a lot of experience of racing the massive boats that compete across a three-to-five month season, including Saturday's prestigious Nehru Trophy.
"It runs in my family," said Vakkachan, the leading captain of the Kainakary-based United Boat Club (UBC), which has been competing for the Nehru Trophy since 1963 and won it 12 times.
"Our club has won the Nehru Trophy the most times and also lost it the most times," he told Reuters with a smile.
Deadly floods killed 28 people and displaced thousands across Kerala this month and parts of Kainakary were also affected.
Several roads became inaccessible as houses and churches stood half-submerged, surrounded by paddy fields that had swollen into lakes.
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Yet UBC's rowers -- mostly locals but including oarsmen from distant states like Uttarakhand and Manipur -- maintained their rigorous practice schedule, often twice daily.
UBC are rated a decent chance for a 13th triumph as they have been hired to row "Veeyapuram", the boat which won the Nehru Trophy and the Champions Boat League last season in the hands of the Village Boat Club.
"VICIOUS VEERU"
Like most Chundan Vallam, or snake boats, Veeyapuram is community-owned and belongs to a village of the same name some 30 km (19 miles) south of Kainakary.
Hundreds of villagers raised around Rs 90 lakh ($94,300) to launch the boat -- nicknamed "Vicious Veeru" -- in 2019.
Funding each season costs nearly Rs 70 lakh ($73,000), with the boat owners earning back only a fraction from sponsors and prize money.
While the Kerala government often uses snake boat races to promote tourism, shareholder Manikanthan Nair TM said the boat-owning communities get little help as they battle financial hardship and natural disasters to keep the sport alive.
Kamarudeen KA, the secretary of the Veeyapuram ownership group, however, said they would not give up the tradition despite the challenges.
"As long as we're here, we'll keep (this boat) running," he said.
"People speak of it proudly and with admiration. We feel proud that this boat has given us that recognition and identity."
A SYMBOL OF UNITY
Originally designed as battle canoes in the 13th century, the snake boats have become unlikely symbols of unity in a culturally diverse state.
A green Islamic prayer cloth, a Hindu flower garland and a Christian cross hang together on Veeyapuram, which was blessed by priests of all three religions.
"There's no barrier like religion or caste when it comes to the boat ... we all pray for its success," said Robin Varghese, a Christian priest and member of the Veeyapuram committee.
The sport weaves prayer into competition as well with the rhythmic songs chanted during the race drawing on Hindu, Christian and Islamic religious traditions.
"This is our blood and culture," said UBC secretary Sajimon B.
Boats can compete for decades. The Karichal snake boat, launched in 1970, narrowly beat Veeyapuram to win the 2024 Nehru Trophy.
When a snake boat is retired, it is cremated like a person and a ritual is held to transfer its soul to a new vessel.
"He's our kid... he decides what to do with himself," Manikanthan said of Veeyapuram's boat.
"The holy river gives him everything he needs to win this season, that's what we pray."
