Green and lush, the landscape unfurls as you round that final bend and Hanalei Bay comes into view. Craggy volcanic ridges descend to the glistening sea, like a dragon coming to rest, and we are spellbound.
Kauai's southern shore brims with wave-kissed beaches and resorts. But the north shore feels like an enchanted island of its own, the Bali Hai of "South Pacific." The small laidback town of Hanalei is lined with eateries, boutiques and galleries. Taro fields are making a comeback on the town's outskirts. And the sheltered bay weaves a spell of sheer magic.
You could easily spend your days lolling in a hammock or splashing in the gentle waves in the summer _ or surfing the giant winter waves at the outer reefs. But we can't resist the Dock Dynasty sign, nor the scarlet kayaks poised on the Hanalei River bank in such alluring, aquatic style. Within minutes, we're underway on the water.
Once we pass the Kuhio Highway bridge, the automotive rumbles and acrid tang of exhaust dissipate. The air stills, and the river's passage turns to a verdant lushness that runs the green gamut, from the lush pear and shamrock shades of the vegetation to the crocodile hues of the current. As trees and thickets crowd the banks, the river narrows. By the time we decide to head back, about two miles from the dock, it takes a three-point kayak turn to reverse direction.
Back on land _ and fortified by a Hanalei Gourmet burger from the cute cafe on the main drag _ we add our own automotive rumble to the bridge as we head for Kilauea, just a few miles east. The renovated 52-foot tall lighthouse that stands proudly on Kilauea Point, offering spectacular views and twice-weekly lighthouse tours, was built in 1913. The promontory here is a National Wildlife Refuge, so those views are likely to include nene, red-footed boobies, great frigatebirds and wedge-tailed shearwaters, as well as crashing waves and, if you're lucky, whales.
A mile or so away, the Historic Kong Lung Market Center bears testimony to Kilauea's sugar plantation past, when Lung Wah Chee's mercantile supplied plantation workers with everything they needed, from sundries to stamps. The general store, which dates back to 1902, included a post office, a barber shop, a butcher and a diner, as well as a market.
Today the restored market is on the National Register of Historic Places, and you can read about those long-gone days on the plaques and displays here, as well as browse the boutiques. Take a peek inside Kong Lung Trading, where origami cranes mix with kimonos, tea pots and gift items. Don't miss the Coconut Style boutique's batik-print robes and bed linens in brilliant, vibrant hues.
Grab a bite at the Kilauea Bakery and Pau Hana Pizza, where the pizza ($12 and up) is topped with everything from house-smoked ono to alder-smoked lilikoi and rosemary bacon. Or dash across the street to the Kauai Juice Co., where the cold-pressed juices range from Starburst to Rainbow Unicorn, which takes its name _ the first half, anyway _ from a colorful mix of beets, carrots, pineapple, kale and blueberry.
At the end of the day, wander back to Hanalei. Perch at the end of the iconic pier at sunset and watch the bright yellow outriggers of a Hanalei canoe club traverse the water, oars dipping in unison. As darkness falls, stroll over to Bar Acuda for garlicky bruschetta topped with local tomatoes, grilled flank steak banderillas with black pepper-pineapple jam and other small plates.
The moon is rising, stars dot the sky. It's enchanting.
.png?w=600)
