Olivier Rousteing, now five years in charge at Balmain, can be relied on for several things: a stellar front row, a diverse selection of supermodels in his shows and lots and lots of sparkle. These were all in evidence at the spring/summer 2017 show in Paris on Thursday afternoon.
Paid-up members of the so-called Balmain army – Kim and Kourtney Kardashian – sat in the front row with their mother, Kris Jenner, and Carla Bruni. Gigi Hadid and Jourdan Dunn were cast in the show. And metallic chainmail in vibrant stripes adorned gleaming dresses.
Never let it be said that this is a designer who does not deliver. Rousteing is also an Instagram pro and the photography app was not forgotten here – it almost felt like the photogenic backdrop was designed before the collection. The venue, Hôtel Potocki, was ready for its fashion selfie. Already sumptuous with gilt paintwork and chandeliers, it was decorated with tropical plants and vines, hanging down on to a high-shine khaki catwalk.
The collection was a bit of a surprise. Balmain under Rousteing is known for short and tight woven dresses, as worn by Kim Kardashian and her sisters Kendall and Kylie Jenner, and sold to their fans through the successful H&M collaboration in 2015.
The show notes suggested it was time for the Balmain woman to explore “her softer side”, which translated into fewer bandage dresses and more chiffon – the kind of thing rich women might wear to lounge elegantly in the 40-degree heat of a tropical climate. There were tunics, long skirts and wide sleeves in khaki, red, violet and gold. Most trousers were worn wide, trailing on the floor with splits up to the thigh on each leg.
If Balmain is less structured this time around, the glamour factor is still high. These were clothes that would look their best with a wind machine nearby. With 3.9 million Instagram followers, cheekbones designed for selfies and the likes of Rihanna and Justin Bieber on speed dial, 30-year-old Rousteing is the closest thing fashion has to a rock star. His bow here prompted almost as many iPhone snaps as Hadid’s turn on the catwalk.
Backstage resembled the euphoric chaos after a stadium gig: celebrities air-kissing and hurried selfies included. Rousteing was the breathless centre of it. He had just enough time to say that the collection had no inspiration or topic. “I don’t need to think of history, just what I feel now,” he said. “I have my face in fashion now, so I can explore. That’s it.”
Under Rousteing, Balmain has prospered, with revenue growing by 50% between 2013 and 2015. In June Balmain was purchased by Mayhoola, the Qatari investment fund that also owns Valentino. The deal, believed to be worth about £370m, puts Balmain in position for expansion.
According to Womenswear Daily, stores are expected to open in Los Angeles, Hong Kong and Singapore. Accessories, currently accounting for 4% of the business, will also be developed.
Clare Waight Keller’s latest collection for Chloé was presented on Thursday morning. If the past two collections have seen the creative director explore the tougher territory of 90s tracksuits and 60s motorcycle chic, spring/summer had her in natural Chloé girl territory: the 70s.
The show notes called it a collection “about going back to the roots and simplicity of French style”. Loose-tiered dresses in a retro floral print featured, and there were tied suede dresses and dungarees.
Slouchy trouser suits and crisp shirt dresses were recognisable to fans of the house. There was also a bit of nautical theme, with sailing knots on dresses and the bibs of sailor tops. A tiered mini-dress design of bouncy pleats felt worthy of the disco soundtrack.
The shows in Paris continue on Friday with designer Maria Grazia Chiuri’s first collection for Christian Dior on the schedule.
