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The Hindu
The Hindu
National
Praveen B. Para

Kalagi: A wonder of Chalukyan architecture now languishes in neglect

Kalagi town, earlier known as Kaluge, back in its heyday had a cluster of 101 temples built during the reign of Kalyani Chalukyas, who ruled between the 10th and 12th Centuries. While the town stands as a remarkable testament to the rich heritage and architectural prowess of the period, it lies in a dilapidated now due to the apathy of the authorities.

Inscriptions on the main doors of temple at Kalagi village. (Source: Praveen B Para)

The historic town, once known as “garden of temples” is about 40 kilometers from Kalaburagi, the district headquarters of Kalaburagi district in north Karnataka. On visiting the place, one is disheartened to find that only about a dozen temples depicting its past glory stand today and even they are not in a good condition. Kalagi was also the capital city of Mahamandaleshwar of a local feudatory in a later phase. It is believed to have been a centre for political, educational, cultural and religious activities even during this phase.

(Rare view) Ruins of Suryanarayana temple at Kalagi village in Kalaburagi district. (Source: Praveen B Para)

Once a rich city

According to historians, Kalagi (which was recently declared a taluk) was once a well-laid out, rich city with a population of more than three lakhs during the 7th century. Besides 101 temples built during the Chalukya period, there are more than 30 monuments in and around Kalagi. So far, 11 inscriptions dating back to between the 11th Century and the 13th Century are reported from this place. Most of the temples belong to the Shaiva tradition and were built in Kalagi between the 11th and early 13th centuries.

Locals recall that Kalagi village was visited by the Shankaracharya of Kanchi Kamakoti Peetham, Jagadguru Chandrashekarendra Saraswathi during his long camp of 256 days at Mahagaon village (18 March 1982 - 28 January 1983). Shankaracharya visited Kaleshwar temple at Kalagi. In fact, during the same period, former Prime Minister the Late Indira Gandhi called on Shankaracharya at Manik Rao Maharaj Mutt at Mahagaon village (about 20 km from Kalaburagi city).

Idol of Parshwanath Tirthankar. (Source: Praveen B Para)

Suryanarayana temple

Among the temples one that stands out is Suryanarayana Temple constructed during the reign of Vikramaditya-VI, a greatest monarch of the Kalyani Chalukya dynasty. It is a centerpiece amidst the crumbling structures around. As recorded by historians, the unique temple is said to have been constructed between 1076 -1127 A.D.

The inscriptions in Suryanarayana and Kaleshwara temples in Kalagi names Jayakarna, son of the Vikramaditya VI, and king Jagadekamalla of Kalyani Chalukyas. There are several carvings inside the temples, but with the passage of time these carvings have blurred and are difficult to comprehend.

The Suryanarayana temple is a structural made from black schist. The outer walls are covered with beautifully carved inscriptions of salabhanjikas, and deities such as Brahma, Vishnu, Eshwar, Bhairava, Nataraja, Uma-Maheshwara, Mahisha-Mardhini, Ganesh and so on. Each structure has beautiful carvings on walls inside and outside, decorated entrance, exquisite statues, pillars are intricately carved with fusion motifs.

Sculptures on the walls of ruined Suryanarayana temples in Kalagi village of Kalaburagi. (Source: Praveen B Para)

With neglect, a portion of the side walls of the Suryanarayana temple has already fallen down and roots trees have made their way into the walls, threatening them further. The ceiling as well as the wall are in a dilapidated state. Though the temples were under the control of the State Archaeological Department, no efforts were made to preserve them.

An inscription found at the walls of the sanctum sanctorum of Kaleshwara temple at Kalagi village in Chittapur taluk in Kalaburagi. (Source: Praveen B Para)

A Pushkarni (traditional step well with natural springs) is also seen nearby Narasimha and Eshwar temple on the bay of Kalagi stream. A Narasimha temple built on a heptagonal-shaped foundation is adjacent to the step well. The beautiful idol of Ganesh and other idols of gods and goddesses are lying neglected on the banks of stream adjacent to Kaleshwar temple. A few temples that have collapsed are being used as cattle sheds.

There was also a grand Trikuta temple with three separate sanctum sanctorum in one structure with navrang at the centre, and mukha mantapa towards east.

Jain basadi in dilapidated condition at Kalagi village. (Source: Praveen B Para)

Jain Basadis

Jainism also flourished well in the North Karnataka region. In the fifth century CE, many dynasties of the south including Gangas, Kadambas, the Chalukyas and the Rashtrakutas patronised Jainism. Rashtrakuta kings of Manyakheta (now called as Malkhed in Sedam taluk) showed a special leaning towards Jainism and Jaina art and literature.

As the Chalukya dynasty rulers were great patrons of Jainism, the temple town hosted several Jain basadis dedicated to Lord Mahaveera, Adinath, Neminath, Shantinatha and Tirthankara, but these valuable idols are missing today. Inside the town in the market area we can find Trikuta Basadi opposite to Banashankari temple, at the end of this lane at a stone’s throw is the idol of Parshwanath Tirthankar, carved in polished black stone. It is intact in the sanctum sanctorum.

Ruins of Narasimha temple submerged in pushkarini (step-well with natural springs) at Kalagi taluk in Kalaburagi. (Source: Praveen B Para)

The Mallikarjuna temple (earlier known as Gonkeshwara temple) is located amidst the town habitation; built by Bana Mahamandaleshwara Vira Gonkarasa in 1163 A.D. On the right side of Mallikarjun temple is Siddeshwara temple, both belonging to the 12th century. The temples at Kalagi follow the variant of Dravidian architecture popularly known as “Karnata Dravida style.”

The town with rich and diverse heritage needs maintenance and refurbishing to save it from further degradation.

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