Well, it’s been a busy couple of weeks leading up to this year’s Christmas column.
I enjoyed a rather marvellous tasting at Le Monde in Cardiff, hosted by owner Tanny and Ultracomida’s Paul Grimwood, featuring a super range of wines from Bodegas Valduero in the Ribera del Duero.
They were the epitome of elegance and have more gongs than Meryl Streep’s downstairs loo.
And then the following lunchtime we were taken for a comprehensive journey of Albarino, presented by Fiona Beckett at Bar 44 in Cardiff, with a menu designed by Owen Morgan to suit some of the wines on show.
There was a fine turnout to enjoy the 41 wines from 27 bodegas, and while most of them did that Albarino thing of being so drinkable, with fresh acidity and minerality, there were a couple that stood out, with a little more in the tank and so many interesting characteristics – some are not yet available in the UK, but I’ll keep you posted.
If you are having fish on the big day, then this Spanish gem is definitely worth looking at.
This week’s column will feature some chat about fizz and whites suitable for the Christmas table. I’ll pick out some little crackers but I’d like to point out a few styles of wine that would work and you can apply your own price point.
As far as fizz is concerned, the obvious choice of Champagne, but this is being challenged by cremant – made in the same traditional way as champers – but from different regions in France.
Burgundy and the Loire Valley are particularly strong here and many are priced at under £20, making them very attractive indeed.
Whatever you do, don’t forget about the great bottles of cava coming out of the Penedes region in Spain.
Look to specialist merchants in Spanish wines for your pick of top-notch wines, most of which top out at 20 notes.
There is nothing more luxurious, and relaxing, than creamy scrambled eggs and smoked salmon for brekkie with a glass of bubbles.
The calm, if you like, before the hordes of relatives descend like Vikings, coming out of the mist, brandishing not battleaxes but all manner of gifts, choccies and the odd crazy bottle of booze... festive berserkers if you will.
First up for still whites is the grape variety chardonnay – in many different incarnations – but all hitting the spot.
Some can find the oak aging profile on this grape too intrusive, but winemakers are using it as more of a seasoning, rather than something to club your tastebuds into submission.
So I’ll start with the oakless Chablis and the CHABLIS PREMIER CRU, FOURCHAUMES, 2019, NATHALIE & GILES FEVRE (£29, Tanners) that carries bright stonefruit with typical chalky underpinnings on the palate.
A versatile drop that would happily do seafood starters or with the main event.
After a fine Zoom tasting with Marimar Torres, the MARIMAR ESTATE, LA MASIA CHARDONNAY, 2018 (RRP £34.99, VINMN, V-vino, Amazon, Farnham Wine Cellar) is another stunner with great winemaking at its heart.
The influence of fermentation in French oak (over 40% new) makes its mark on the wine but in such a polite, restrained way.
As Marimar says herself, these wines are to be enjoyed now while freshness is at the forefront of the fruit. Elegance and purity are front and centre in this delicious wine.
Moving to western Australia and the ROBERT OATLEY ‘FINISTERRE’ CHARDONNAY 2018 (RRP £24.25, Waitrose, Hedonism, Taurus Wines), despite the introduction of new French oak, has such a fresh attack and generosity of fruit throughout. Balanced vanilla to the tropical fruit is just a delight.
Moving away from chardonnay, I have to give a mention to an “old friend”, the MARQUES DE CACERES ‘ANTEA’ RIOJA 2019 (£10.99 or £9.89 as part of a mix 12, Fine Wines Direct UK, Cardiff).
This barrel-fermented white Rioja ticks all the foodie boxes, with a sprinkling of oak across the rich white fruits. Just cries out for a great big turkey leg.
I always think chenin blanc works as a fine all-rounder and I know I keep banging the drum for South African wines, but after the year they’ve had, they need our support.
The banning of alcohol domestically for long periods, coupled with the problems with exports due to Covid, has put an enormous strain on their industry, so to lighten the mood let’s grab a glass and get involved.
The SOCIETY’S EXHIBITION CHENIN BLANC, WESTERN CAPE 2020 (£13.50, The Wine Society) is yet another example of the society’s super buying and sourcing team.
From visionary winemaker Chris Alheit, this example has no oak but is still has plenty going on in the mouth, with lots of brisk citrus influence. Equally at home with poultry, game or a rich fish dish.
A great addition to the table would be the PEIQUE GODELLO 2020 (£14.95, Ultracomida).
This grape variety godello sits alongside albarino as the star of white wines in the north-west of Spain and this example from Bierzo carries delicate floral notes on the nose but expands on the palate to reveal refreshing tropical fruits and a dash of minerality.
A lovely glass on its own if you can find a nice quiet corner for a minute or two before the annual game of charades starts.
We are so blessed in this country to have at hand the entire wine world, and with help from your local merchant, you’ll have a blast I’m sure.
Give them a handle on what wines you normally enjoy and give them a budget to work to per bottle.
That should give them parameters with which to work and I’m sure you’ll end up with a couple of lovely bottles.
Following on from the whites I am going to help you navigate through the reds and maybe the odd fortified drop.
My traditional approach to reds for the Christmas table tends to focus on Burgundy and Bordeaux, more of which in a minute, but I’m going to spread my net a little further and go for a few “weightier” wines.
However, they do all have one thing in common, good lively acidity, making them a decent match for all the Christmas table has to offer.
It’s always good fun to plan ahead with the wines and the food, but don’t get all stressed about it. As I’ve said before food and wine matching is not an exact science, no matter what some “winey” people say, as everyone’s palate is different.
Just grab a few glasses and have some fun.
I’m going to get some bits from my Bordeaux stash for the big day, but some of you might not have bottles secreted away, so here are a few goodies.
The CHATEAU DE CRUZEAU, Pessac-Leognan 2018 (£16.99, Daniel Lambert Wines Ltd, Bridgend) has 60% merlot and 40% cabernet sauvignon at its heart and the wine shows plush fruit combined with a dash of mineral tones across the mid-palate, with a fine mouthfeel on the finish.
Also from the Andre Lurton stable is the CHATEAU LA LOUVIERE, Pessac-Leognan 2015 (£29.99, Daniel Lambert Wines Ltd, Bridgend). This has a little more age under its belt and the blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot really shows off the black fruit characters and silky tannins.
The oak influence is well-integrated and the wine is starting to show lots of secondary characteristics. This really would suit most red meats including a fragrant piece of venison.
From a Familia Fernandez property in Castilla y Leon comes a new wine and stablemate of the “regular” Contada de Haza. The CONTADA DE HAZA ‘20 ALDEAS’ 2018 (£18.95, Fine Wines Direct UK, Cardiff) is a real departure from the traditional approach that the Contada de Haza displays.
This new organic red has its oak profile pushed a little further into the background and it’s the ripe fruit that is front and centre.
That’s not to say there isn’t a touch of vanilla on the nose supporting the blueberry bouquet.
On the palate the fruit is carried along on a raft of crisp acidity and that whisper of oak which announces its Spanish credentials.
Notes of tobacco and coffee grounds straight off the bat, with a languid and complex finish which would make it as happy with braised meats or the turkey and all the trimmings. And don’t forget the pigs in blankets.
Off to Italy and from the noble grape variety that gives us Barolo and Barbaresco comes the ARESCA NEBBIOLO D’ALBA DOC 2016 (£12.99, Fine Wines Direct UK, Cardiff), which is distinctly easier on the wallet.
Aged for six months in oak, this has a bold nose of bright red fruits that carry a little spice to them. In the mouth it’s juicy, assured and fresh. If you are serving some red meat alongside or instead of the big old bird, than this would be rather marvellous.
Staying with the food wines of Italy comes the BANFI ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 2019 (RRP £19.99, Majestic). Sangiovese at its heart and lots of authentic cherry fruit aromas. Spicy acidity from the crunchy fruit on the palate keeps things lively and suitable for all manner of game birds or a nice roast ham.
The next two wines are ramping up the alcohol a touch and leading us nicely into the realms of fortified wines and nightcaps.
A wine that could easily be categorised in the stealth category is the extremely juicy yet powerful Thorn-Clarke Single Vineyard 2018 Barossa Grenache (£17.99, Fine Wines Direct UK, Cardiff). The nose has a little sweetness across the red fruits, with lots of wild strawberry and ripe plum fruit.
In the mouth the touch of spice throughout and the crisp acidity sit alongside the amiable red fruit character which has had a good dose of Aussie sun across its back – hence the 15.5% alcohol.
So polite and nicely delivered, though, this is an easy-drinking red and is why Oz grenache is getting something of a cult following. Delish!
The CALMEL AND JOSEPH ‘LA FABRIQUE’ 2020 (£13.99, Daniel Lambert Wines Ltd, Bridgend) is 100% carignan and carries the juicy nature of this variety as its signature.
A touch of spice heat and bright acidity complete the package. The wine has had six months in concrete tanks and that adds a mineral interest to the wine.
Port should be enjoyed all year round but it always gets a very good airing around the festive period, but if you spread your net a little wider there are some very interesting fortified tipples out there.
I had to give the PENFOLDS FATHER TAWNY (RRP £24.99, Majestic) a go as it has all the components of a fine Christmas cake, with dried fruits carrying that deep sweetness and plenty of nutty character on the finish. The viscous quality gives it a luxurious mouthfeel and the feeling you are having a bit of a naughty moment.
This unashamedly Aussie blend of shiraz, mourvedre, cabernet sauvignon and grenache makes you crave cashmere socks and a big blankie – perfect when the friends and relatives have all gone home.
In memory of my dear father-in-law who passed away on Christmas Day 2014, I have to give a mention to his favourite tipple, Hine Cognac.
I was treated to a fine Zoom tasting a couple of weeks ago with Eric Forget, long-time cellar master at Hine Cognac, who was extremely generous with his insights into this fantastic spirit.
Still under family ownership, the house produces Cognac that not only shows off the diversity of the terroir but also allows them to create new products such as their HINE BONNEUIL range, which is a single vineyard, single batch, single vintage cognac – brilliant!
You can start at the HINE RARE VSOP (RRP £52, Waitrose, Amazon and The Whisky Exchange) and then work your way through their two differing XO’s. If you can’t treat yourself to a great Cognac at Christmas, then when can you?
