I love British winters, and being outside on crisp, cold days, as well as steaming up at indoor parties. Although people say January is the deepest, darkest month, we have incredible winter produce, such as iron-rich brassicas and sweet leeks, all of which are begging to be part of warming soups and stews. Dried beans are another winter essential, being both hearty and affordable, so I always have some in the store-cupboard, ready for action.
Black beans with ham hock and cabbage
The area around Tolosa in the Basque country is famous for its beans, from purple to black, and they tend to be firm with a creamy texture and gorgeous nuttiness; if you can’t find them, use dried black beans, turtle beans or kidney beans instead.
This dish is traditionally made with chorizo, morcilla and pork belly, but this is a simplified version of the original. It features only a small amount of meat, and plenty of fabulous winter vegetables, with just a little pimentón for its lovely warmth.
Soak Overnight
Prep 10 min
Cook 1 hr 30 min
Serves 4
400g dried alubias negras de Tolosa, or any other dried black beans
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to finish
2 medium onions, peeled and finely sliced
1 large leek, trimmed and finely sliced
1 fresh bay leaf
A few sprigs each fresh thyme and oregano
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced
1 tsp pimentón de la vera
1 good pinch chilli flakes
250ml white wine
500ml chicken stock
Salt and black pepper
200g cavolo nero or curly kale, thick stalks removed and discarded or saved for stock, the leaves shredded
180g shredded ham hock
2 tsp sherry or moscatel vinegar
Soak the beans in cold water overnight. The next day, drain the beans, tip them into a pan and add enough cold water to cover by about 2½cm. Bring to a boil, turn down the heat and simmer for an hour, until the beans are just tender.
Meanwhile, put the oil in a large pan or casserole on a medium heat, then gently fry the onions and leek, stirring, for 10 minutes, until softened. Add the herbs, garlic and spices, fry, stirring, for a few minutes more, then pour in the wine, raise the heat and leave to bubble until reduced by half.
Drain the beans, reserving a couple of ladlefuls of their cooking water, and add both to the onion pan. Add the stock, season generously and simmer gently uncovered for about 20-30 minutes, until the beans are very tender and the juices have reduced and thickened.
Add the cavolo nero, cover the pot and cook for four to five minutes, just to wilt. Stir in the shredded ham hock and vinegar, just to heat through, then ladle into bowls and serve with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil, a scattering of chilli flakes and a good grind of black pepper.
