As my friends and I pile off the No4 tram at Limmatplatz I suddenly realise I can't remember the way to my favourite Swiss bar. Not because I've had one too many caipirinhas, but because here in the Zürich West area, the nightlife - albeit vibrant - is somewhat hidden. Zürich, up until recently, wasn't associated with club culture, but it is, in fact, Europe's clubbing capital, with more clubs per head of population than any other European city. So where they hell are they?
After a few false starts I finally find the way to Pier West, one of Zürich's numerous outdoor bars that line the Limmat river and lakeside in summertime. Its Balearic attitude and style is fused with an eclectic music programme that attracts a laid-back, stylish local crowd. Huge riverside torches are lit just as the sun goes down and the DJ turns up the volume. I could happily lounge on the huge day beds here all night, but hunger calls and we head off to another local favourite.
We walk up the Langstrasse to the Josef bar and restaurant, which has more than a hint of Camden about it, and a soundtrack to match. Its interior features a striking photo collage of timeless rock idols by cult Zürich artist and DJ Rockmaster K, who represents the new cultural transformation of the Kreis 4 and 5 districts. Once home to the city's industrial revolution, the area's vast factories and dusty warehouses have now been transformed into art galleries, chic lounge bars, stylish restaurants - and a heck of a lot of nightclubs.
Fuelled by Josef's tasty cocktails and Italian cooking, my friends are now champing at the bit to sample some serious nightlife - and it just so happens that Zürich's best-kept secret, the Zukunft club, is nearby. Its interior style is minimal but with a disco twist - like its music policy, featuring local DJs and live cabaret. I am stunned to see it's edging past 5am, but my friends want to keep the Saturday-night feeling well into Sunday, so Hive, another legendary Zürich West club, is the place to be. In fact, thanks to its party programme, which often lasts well past Sunday lunchtime, it will be that way for a few hours yet.
The best of Swiss nightlife
Basel: Das Schiff
This unusual venue in the West Quay port is a converted freighter. Now home to a trendy bar, restaurant and nightclub, it features international electro DJs and live bands.
Bern: Café Kairo
A bohemian mix of cabaret venue and lounge bar. Sofas, table football and poetry nights make it an essential stop for a slice of underground Bern cafe culture.
Bern: Reitschule
This old riding school has become the centre for the local experimental scene. It has a somewhat chaotic programme of exhibitions, live music and club events as well as a bistro-style restaurant. Worth checking out, as you may discover some of Switzerland's coolest events and people here.
Lausanne: Amnesia
Set near the sandy beaches at the edge of the lakeside, this offers a Swiss version of Balearic-style clubbing. Inside it's a heady mix of pumping house grooves, but its chilled outdoor bar is great for cool beer and stunning sunsets with your feet in the sand.
Lausanne: Mad
One of the most prestigious clubs in Switzerland, Mad has five dance floors, numerous bars, and even a cinema. The giant pink condom painted on the outside wall is a not-so-subtle hint at the quirky interior design.
Winterthur: Plan B
The recently regenerated Sulzer Areal industrial area is home to some of the city's most interesting bars and nightclubs. The current place to be seen is Plan B, a starkly chic loft space with supersize sofas, and a favourite haunt of local clubbers.
Zürich: Street Parade, 8 August
This is the world's largest techno party. Hundreds of thousands of revellers dance wildly on the love floats, in the streets and late into the night at hundreds of parties held in clubs and bars throughout the city.
