Cult film director John Waters knows a strong look when he sees one. He's been working on his since the 60s, with that pencil moustache (thanks to Maybelline eye pencil, apparently), those arched eyebrows and the sharp Comme des Garçons suits (anyone who hasn't should stop everything and read the chapter on designer Rei Kawakubo in Waters' book Role Models now). Waters is presenting the CFDAs, AKA the fashion Oscars, in New York on Tuesday night, and releasing his new book Carsick in the same week. To celebrate, here are our five favourite fashion moments from his films.
Divine in the red dress in Pink Flamingos
What to wear to conduct a public execution of two hostages? A full evening look, blond bouffant, diamante earrings and blue eyeshadow, of course. Divine's red fishtail dress, worn in the 1972 film, is now probably the most iconic image from Waters' early movies, and remains an inspiration for anyone wearing the silhouette (Amy Adams, surely?) to this day.
Penny Pingleton in the P blouse in Hairspray
Penny Pingleton – she of the overprotective mother, and Tracy Turnblad for a BFF – is a cult favourite for Waters' fans, and her 'P' blouse is a signature whether she liked it or not. A diktat from said mother so that "everyone will know you are permanently, positively punished", poor Penny has the ultimate humiliation: wearing the blouse for her audition to appear on Corny Collins Record Hop. Add an admittance of only owning five sweaters to the committee of cool kids, and social outcast status was hers.
The drape gang in Crybaby
Yes, Johnny Depp as the title juvenile delinquent is the headliner in this 50s-set film, but the whole gang here is worth committing to style memory. See Iggy Pop in his birthday suit; Ricki Lake as teen mom Pepper, complete with two kids dressed in mini-rocker outfits; porn star Traci Lords; and – the queen – Hatchet Face. Her over-the-knee pencil skirt, high belt and biker jacket has more than a little of Kim Kadashian's current look. And, I think you'll agree, the image of Kimye tucking into the popcorn while watching Crybaby is irresistible.
Dawn Davenport and her her cha-cha-cha heels in Female Trouble
Tantrums on Christmas Day are a possibility every festive season – but Dawn's trumps the lot, and all over a pair of shoes. "My parents are going to be sorry if I don't get my cha-cha heels," she snarls to friends before the big day. And, boy, are they. Dawn doesn't get her cha-cha-cha heels – "nice girls don't wear cha-cha heels," wails her dad – so she stomps over presents, screams and shouts, and knocks the Christmas tree on her mother. Played by Divine wearing a lime-green teddy and furry slippers, managing the terrible twos seems like child's play in comparison.
Cuddles in the tennis outfit in Polyester
Edith Massey was a Waters favourite. He met her in his home town of Baltimore, where she used to run a thrift store. Here she plays Cuddles, a rich, well-meaning if cruel friend of troubled Francine Fishpaw, played by Divine. While Francine negotiates the pitfalls of an adulterous husband, alcoholism and two delinquent children, Cuddles swans about in a serious of excellent outfits suitable for her Wasp lifestyle. The tennis outfit is a highlight – especially when contrasted with poor Francine's suicide attempt. And the shopping trip for a debutante gown – "Oh, a Halston! How au courant!" – is well worth a watch too.
