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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Jay McInerney

Jay McInerney: New Orleans cuisine is alive and snapping

New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans
Author Jay McInerney in New Orleans
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian
New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans
Nine months after Katrina, many of New Orleans's great restaurants were shuttered. Now, most of the old temples of Creole cuisine are open – and the dining scene is more varied than ever
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian
New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans
August, the flagship of chef John Besh, is often cited as the city's finest restaurant
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian
New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans
Seafood is a key ingredient in Creole cuisine
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian
New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans
Grand dames lunch at the city's grand dame – Galatoire's restaurant, open since 1905
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian
New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans
A child holds up a crawfish
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian
New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans
Draining the crawfish pot
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian
New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans
At Cochon, the newest restaurant from Louisiana native Donald Link, the menu includes fried alligator, catfish courtboullion and some spectacular drinks
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian
New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans
Chef John Besh serves up gumbo, the classic, though hard to define, Creole dish. It may be based on the African okra dish quingombó, or it may derive from bouillabaisse – or both
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian
New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans
At Herbsaint, says the chef, Donald Link, "every day the menu starts with gumbo"
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian
New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans
Arnaud's restaurant
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian
New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans
Antoine's restaurant
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian
New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans
Our daily bread, New Orleans-style
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian
New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans
A flair for the dramatic
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian
New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans
The meat locker at Herbsaint
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian
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