Jay McInerney: New Orleans cuisine is alive and snapping

Author Jay McInerney in New Orleans
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian

Nine months after Katrina, many of New Orleans's great restaurants were shuttered. Now, most of the old temples of Creole cuisine are open – and the dining scene is more varied than ever
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian

August, the flagship of chef John Besh, is often cited as the city's finest restaurant
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian

Seafood is a key ingredient in Creole cuisine
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian

Grand dames lunch at the city's grand dame – Galatoire's restaurant, open since 1905
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian

A child holds up a crawfish
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian

Draining the crawfish pot
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At Cochon, the newest restaurant from Louisiana native Donald Link, the menu includes fried alligator, catfish courtboullion and some spectacular drinks
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian

Chef John Besh serves up gumbo, the classic, though hard to define, Creole dish. It may be based on the African okra dish quingombó, or it may derive from bouillabaisse – or both
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian

At Herbsaint, says the chef, Donald Link, "every day the menu starts with gumbo"
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Arnaud's restaurant
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian

Antoine's restaurant
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Our daily bread, New Orleans-style
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A flair for the dramatic
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian

The meat locker at Herbsaint
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian