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Bangkok Post
Bangkok Post
Lifestyle
KARNJANA KARNJANATAWE

Japanese idyll

The train was approaching Wakayama Station in the city of Wakayama in Japan. It was outstanding and different from other trains because it has a face like a white cat. There were two brown ears at the top. Two windows for the driver at the front looked like its eyes while there were three lines of whiskers on both cheeks next to a round nose and a straight mouth. The name of the train was the Tama Dencha, or Tama Train.

Wakayama Castle at dusk.

"Wow! It is very cute," I exclaimed almost simultaneously with other foreign passengers, mostly Chinese, while waiting on Platform 9 of the station.

Tama was a female calico cat and was a station master of Kishi Station in the town of Kinokawa, about a 30 minute train ride from Wakayama Station. The cat made headlines around the world more than a decade ago when it was credited with saving the money-losing Kishigawa Line of Wakayama Electric Railway Company. The cat was named "super station master" after she passed away at the age of 16 in 2015.

Today visitors still ride the Tama Train to Kishi Station to see the new station master, Tama II or Nitama, who was the deputy of Tama in 2012.

Tuna-preparation show at Kuroshio Market.

When the cute train, which was also decorated with the Tama theme throughout the three carriages, stopped at the Kishi Station, most of the passengers stormed to the working space of Nitama.

She lay down on a soft mat inside a display window in the station. She slowly closed her eyes, ignoring all cameras and the people who tapped on the window to gain her attention.

It was unfortunate that I did not see Nitama in her uniform. She did not wear a cap either, but at least she looked comfortable inside the window display. Had she been out in the open chill air with the uniform, I bet no one would have left the station without taking pictures with her or touching her fluffy hair.

The cute Tama Train.

Apart from the cute station master, Kishi Station also has a small corner paying tribute to Tama. It is called the Tama Museum, located in the coffee shop of the station. It exhibits pictures of Tama, her life-size sculpture with a cap, and a display of her blue uniform. On the platform, there is a small Tama shrine. Tama was honoured as the "spirit goddess Tama Daimyojin".

I walked around the station for a while before riding a train back to Wakayama City. My next destination was Kuroshio Market in Marina City, which can be reached by a 20 minute bus ride from Wakayama station.

The place is popular for fresh sashimi, my idea for lunch. I surveyed every food outlet in the market before making a decision on what to have. It was easy to walk around the market by following the only two alleys inside. The walkway at either end can lead you back to the entrance gate.

From the entrance of Wakayama Station, you will see cat signs leading you to board Tama Train on Platform 9.

Along the walkway, there were outlets selling many types of fresh seafood. You can choose a tray of sashimi, grilled eel sushi or grilled seafood, tempura, ramen and rice dishes like shirasudon, a local meal which is a bowl of rice topped with boiled small white fish known as shirasu and soy sauce.

There is a large open-air dining area outside the market where you can sit and enjoy your meal. An alternative is to buy trays of fresh barbecue varieties and grill the food on a BBQ table in a separate zone of the same dining area. There are shops selling hot and cold drinks, too. The ambience of the dining area is like a food court. After finishing the meal, you are required to throw away your trash in the provided bins.

Apart from fresh seafood, another highlight of Kuroshio Market is in seeing how a Japanese vendor cuts fresh tuna. The tuna-preparation show is hosted at the front of the market next to the entrance gate. There is a raised platform next to the counter for children to stand on and have a closer look at the show.

Nitama works at Kishi Station five days a week, 10am-4pm. She has days off on Wednesdays and Thursdays.

The show is hosted three times a day, at 11am, 12.30pm and 3pm. When the 15 minute show is finished, you can queue up to buy freshly cut sashimi from the vendor. It was served with soy sauce and wasabi too.

My last stop for my one-day trip in Wakayama was Wakayama Castle, located on Torafusu Hill in the city. The original building was destroyed by bombing during World War II and reconstructed to the present structure in 1958. When I reached the ground area of the castle tower, I saw a teenager in a ninja costume. He greeted visitors and extended his hand to help take pictures of the visitors and the castle.

He hung a badge on his left chest announcing a free picture-taking service. When I asked to have a photo with him, he showed me how to pose like a ninja, which made me laugh.

The Wakayama Castle is a complex of buildings. Its main three-storey building is a museum which exhibits samurai items from the Edo period (1603-1868), such as costumes of various ranks, weapons and armour. Visitors can go to the top floor for a panoramic view of the city. If the weather is clear, you can see the mouth of the Kino River.

After visiting the museum, you can walk around the public park, which also houses a zoo. I waited on the castle grounds in the park until sunset.

The sky gradually turned orange, making the castle even more beautiful. Although people said Wakayama Castle is more picturesque during spring when it is time for cherry blossoms, autumn is also a good time to see the colour of the charming red leaves.

Travel Info

- You can take an Airport Limousine bus from Kansai Airport for ¥1,150 (340 baht) to Wakayama Station. An alternative is to take a train (http://kansaiairport.or.jp).

From the station, choices of transportation include public bus, train and taxi. Places to stay with a view of Wakayama Castle from your room are Daiwa Roynet Hotel (http://daiwaroynet.jp) and Smile Hotel (http://smile-hotels.com).

- Kuroshio Market is open daily from 10am-6pm. Visit http://marinacity.com.

- Wakayama Castle is open daily from 9am-5.30pm. Admission fee is ¥410 (120 baht).

- For more information about Wakayama, visit http://en.visitwakayama.jp.

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