Jamie Oliver's Italian twists

If Oliver Twist were a true story starring Jamie Oliver, he grew up to be as unlike Mr Bumble The Beadle as possible. Refused more gruel, he doesn't just give people enough but food fit for rock stars.

The first Jamie's Italian opened in Oxford in 2008. Today there are 23 in the UK plus 32 around the world, from Caribbean cruise ships to case in point Siam Discovery Center, Bangkok, making him  one of the world's most celebrated chefs.

What's more, like Dickens' noble-hearted urchin, he's a jolly good bloke. Shooting to fame in 1999 with The Naked Chef on BBC TV he was baptised into the establishment with Member of the Order of the British Empire laurels for his food-centred philanthropy in 2003.

Why Italian? Though Jaime is as British as the restaurant's Sunday roasts (see below), he's an evangelical Italian food convert mentored by Gennaro Contaldo (BBC's "Two Greedy Italians").

Enhanced with trademark twists, Jamie confounds sceptics with unfailingly indulgent, tried, tested and loved Italian recipes.  Better yet, he's sustainable, rigorously cooking from scratch using local and imported artisanal and organic ingredients (chickens and eggs from Sirin Farm, pork and charcuterie from Sloane's, cheeses and dairy from Mille Stelle, and fruit and veg from Delish Foods.) Pasta is made in house daily.

Claiming prime ground floor space enjoying widescreen window views of Rama I-Phyathai junction, the modern trattoria of 172 uncluttered covers ranges an open kitchen and pasta-making area, alcove gallery seating, a merchandise counter, an antipasti counter, a bar and main dining area.

An "Italian Feast" promotion for two, comprising antipasti, two "primi" dishes, and a mains, available Monday-Friday at THB 1,490++, makes much sense.

Jamie is credited with spreading the Italian tradition of serving antipasti on wooden planks and he's still at it. Perched on a couple of cans of tomatoes (not for eating), the plank is stacked with prosciutto, porchetta de testa, coppa,  fennel salami, wagyu beef bresaola, chorizo and mortadella. Plus pecorino with sweet chilli jam on lavroche, mozzarella bocconcini with salsa, pickled olives and chillies, crunchy coleslaw, and divine chicken liver pate/balsamico onion jam. All served with fermented breads and crostini courtesy of Maison Jean Philippe.

For primis, choose from wild mushroom risotto; tagliatelle with red wine-soaked pork and beef ragu or, our choices, classic Linguine Vongole, tender steamed clams with garlic, chili, white wine, caper and parsley sauce, and; perfectly al dente tagliatelle slathered with fresh truffle, butter and nutmeg.

Mains choices include: pan-roasted salmon, mussels and squid in shellfish, tomato and white wine stew; pork chop with apple sauce; Calabrian chicken in spicy eggplant, tomato and black olive sauce, and wonderfully tasty and tender 10oz Angus sirloin served with chunky multi-hued heritage tomato salsa.

Jamie's above-mentioned roasts satisfy British Sunday lunch cravings on Saturdays and Sundays. Priced THB 760++, they include: pork loin chop; Angus fillet steak roasted in bone marrow, chargrilled with wild mushroom and red wine sauce; roasted rack of lamb with pumpkin puree and salsa verde; roast chicken with bacon-wrapped sausages, and; nut roast. All served with rosemary roast potatoes, Yorkshire pudding, bottomless veggies and unlimited gravy.

The desserts are stellar, too, including fresh vanilla panna cotta with red berries, crumble and mint, and new tiramisu in chocolate dome.

Wines are mainly Italian with some New Zealand and French classics. A new line of fiano grape juice offers more layered flavour than commonly encountered Italian wines. Plus craft beers, cocktails, digestifs and whatnot.

Yes indeed, sir, at Jamie's Italian you definitely can have much, much more.

Reservations: http://chope.co, http://jamieoliver.com
Order: http://grabfood.co.th
Phone: 02 255 5222