Jan. 13--It's the world's largest tree fruit. And it's increasingly finding its way on plates and menus around the country as a super-healthy stand-in for pulled pork.
Meet the jackfruit.
Never heard of it?
Jackfruit, which are native to Asia and can grow to 50 pounds or more, can be consumed ripe or, as is becoming increasingly popular, in the un-ripe or "green" state. The fruit resembles a giant, spiky watermelon.
Ripe jackfruit is sweet and custardy soft. Unripened jackfruit is a bit vegetal, starchy like a banana, yet stringy, chewy and meaty like pulled pork or chicken. Like tofu, it takes on the flavors of whatever it's cooked with.
"Jackfruit is everywhere right now," says Nicole Sopko, vice president of Upton's Naturals, which sells ready-to-eat jackfruit and seitan. "Don't be frightened."
Chicago-based Upton's Naturals recently began selling heat-and-eat jackfruit in Bar-B-Que and Chili Lime Carnitas varieties. Once picked, the fruit has a shelf life of only a day or two. So Upton's does all processing in Thailand before shipping the finished product overseas.
Upton's jackfruit is now in some 20 to 30 specialty retailers around Chicago, says Sidney Siegel, partner and director of sales for Natural Direct, a food distributor that carries Upton's Naturals products. And it has just been made available in food-service packaging, so it will likely be on more restaurant menus soon.
"Up until now, there's been no other commercial jackfruit except in Asian specialty markets," Siegel says. "It's hitting a whole gluten-free population and anti-soy movement. ... Our sales have been strong."
Jackfruit is also available canned -- either in water or syrup -- at Asian grocers, some natural-foods markets and on Amazon.com. Home cooks should seek out the water-packed variety, says JL Fields, a cookbook author and vegan-cooking consultant.
"I grew up in rural Illinois and pork was always a big mainstay," says Fields, now based in Colorado Springs. She explained that she is vegan now, but not because she did not like the taste of meat. "I try to make foods that remind me of things I used to eat."
Fields always has several cans of jackfruit in her pantry, ready for quick barbecue dishes, curries and more. She particularly likes to prepare it in her pressure cooker because, she says, it infuses the jackfruit with flavor in a short time. She pitches jackfruit as a great option for those who are looking to eat healthier, as well as those who are vegetarian or vegan and miss the texture of meat.
"Grab a can," she says. "Play with it. Pretend it's tofu and you're in charge of what it's going to taste like. Choose flavors you already love. Go with what you know."
Unlike other common meat replacers, however, jackfruit only has a couple of grams of protein per cup. Those who eat it like to serve it with beans or other higher-protein foods on the side.
Jill Nussinow, a cookbook author and culinary educator in Santa Rosa, Calif., prefers spending her money on heirloom beans over jackfruit when it comes to plant-based dining.
"I've been a vegetarian for forever," Nussinow says. "It mimics the texture of something I haven't eaten in years. I can't see the appeal of it. ... It's not a substitute for meat and it's kind of pricey. I don't think it's the next quinoa."
At Chicago's Ruxbin restaurant, chef Edward Kim is using canned jackfruit to make carnitas. The fruit is shredded, braised, pan-crisped and infused with seasonings common in Mexican dishes.
"The best vegetarian and vegan food takes a product and celebrates it for what it is," Kim says. "I grew up eating a lot of tofu. With the jackfruit carnitas, it's its own thing. It's not trying to taste like something else. Jackfruit is a very beautiful product."
Heather Lalley is a freelance writer.
Jackfruit and sweet potato enchiladas
Prep: 25 mintues
Cook: 30 minutes
Makes: 10 to 12 enchiladas
Adapted from "Vegan Pressure Cooking: Delicious Beans, Grains, and One-Pot Meals in Minutes" by JL Fields. Enchiladas are often associated with meat and cheese. Here jackfruit provides the meaty texture and mashed sweet potatoes lend a cheesy consistency.
Jackfruit filling:
1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
4 cloves garlic, finely diced
1/4 cup onion, diced
3/4 cup sweet potato, diced
1 can (20 ounces) jackfruit, packed in water, drained, rinsed
1 teaspoon ground cumin
2 teaspoons taco seasoning
1 teaspoon chili powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 to 1 cup vegetable broth
Enchiladas:
1 can (12 ounces) red enchilada sauce
10 to 12 (6-inch) corn tortillas
1 can (4 ounces) diced green chilies
1 can (2.25 ounces) sliced black olives, drained
1 cup shredded vegan cheddar cheese
1 Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 13-by-9-inch baking dish.
2 For the jackfruit filling, heat the oil in an uncovered pressure cooker on medium-high. Add the garlic and onion; cook until the onion is soft, 3 minutes. Add the sweet potatoes; cook, 1-2 minutes. Add the jackfruit, cumin, taco seasoning, chili powder, salt and enough vegetable broth to cover the potatoes and jackfruit. Stir well. (The filling can also be cooked in a Dutch oven or large pan on the stovetop. Cook garlic and onion, as directed above, add other ingredients and simmer until the potatoes are cooked through, about 10 minutes.)
3 Cover and bring to pressure. Cook at high pressure for 3 minutes. Allow for a natural release.
4 Remove the lid, stir well, and use a spoon or fork to shred the jackfruit. Set aside.
5 For the enchiladas, wrap tortillas in a dampened kitchen towel. Heat in microwave, 90 seconds. (This makes them more pliable.) Pour enchilada sauce into a shallow bowl. Drag each tortilla through the sauce, turning once, to coat lightly. Transfer to a plate.
6 Coat the bottom of the prepared baking dish with some of the remaining sauce, if you like. Spread 1/4 cup jackfruit filling in the middle of each tortilla. Add some green chilies and black olive slices. Fold or roll the tortillas; place in the baking dish, seam-side down. Pour the remaining sauce over them. Sprinkle with the cheese and the remaining olives and green chilies. Bake until heated through and bubbling, 20 to 25 minutes.
Nutrition information per enchilada (for 12 enchiladas): 191 calories, 6 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 33 g carbohydrates, 3 g protein, 613 mg sodium, 3 g fiber
