They say Madeira is the Hawaii of Europe – it’s very green with incredible views of the mountains. People come here for the surf but also for nature, the levada walking trails and canyoning. Like Hawaii, it’s a volcanic island, and the waves are very powerful. It’s one of the best places in the world to surf.
Surfing isn’t just good exercise, it’s great for mental health, too. When you come out of the water, you have that feeling of peace and satisfaction. Surfing is like meditation. You can’t think about your problems because you have to be present in the moment. The feeling of ecstasy or euphoria comes when you catch a wave. When I catch a great wave, I feel like I’ve won the day.
Madeira is divided into beaches for beginner to intermediate surfers, and intermediate to advanced. The beaches here have either black sand or stones, but the bottom of the sea is always sandy. Wherever you are, you’ll always have a beautiful view from the sea. You won’t see buildings or apartments; always mountains. There is no place in Madeira that isn’t beautiful.
Surfing for beginners
The best place for newbies is Praia da Alagoa in Porto da Cruz. It’s a bay so there’s not much current. There are channels that take you out so you don’t have to paddle against the waves, which makes it easier. Ask a local to show you where the channels are, or join a surf school. Also in Porto da Cruz is Maiata, where beginners tend to go in the summer. It’s more exposed than Alagoa and there is a current, so it’s slightly trickier but, on certain days in the summer, it’s perfect.
Machico is another great spot. The waves are smaller and more tubular, and it’s easy to catch a wave. The currents don’t tend to be strong, and you’ll find a lot of swimmers there, too.
For Raquel Robalo, surfing isn’t just good exercise – it’s a form of meditation too
Where the pros go
For intermediate to advanced surfers, São Vicente has beautiful, powerful waves, but there are also channels that help you swim out. Don’t go at low tide because there are rocks and you could hurt yourself or damage your board. The sunset here is stunning, particularly in August, so it’s great for surfing at sundown.
My favourite spot for surfing depends on the swell, but I always love Fajã da Areia at São Vicente. There’s no sand there, despite it having “areia” (Portuguese for sand) in its name. For me it has the best waves because they’re clean, so you can predict the surf and keep improving. The downside is the sea urchins – it hurts when you stand on them. If you’re new to the area, wear boots or ask the locals where the sea urchins are so you can avoid them.
Professional surfers such as Greg Long and Tom Lowe tend to go to Jardim do Mar. I haven’t surfed there because my limit is two metres – I’ve seen waves as high as 10 metres there. I have tried Paul do Mar, where the professionals also go. For the more experienced, there’s also Ribeira da Janela, where the waves only break to the left.
Surf schools
The majority of the schools are in Porto da Cruz, as that’s where the beginners go. You can hire beginner or advanced boards there. Check out Madeira Surf Camp, Calhau Surf School and Salty.
The beaches of Porto da Cruz are ideal for beginners
Other water sports
One of the most popular water sports is standup paddleboarding, and Madeira has a competition called the SUP Race. You can do it almost anywhere on the island – including Funchal, where you can hire equipment at the marina, go around the quay and head farther out.
Windsurfing is a growing sport here, too. At Funchal marina, you’ll find sailing, kayaking and windsurfing. For scuba diving, the area around Caniço is best because it’s a protected nature reserve, so the fish are abundant and the water is crystal clear. There’s also a diving centre at the Clube Naval do Funchal.
Après-surf
I always have a poncha, the local cocktail made from sugar cane spirit, sugar and lemon, at the Restaurante Praia da Alagoa. If I eat out, I’ll go to A Pipa for a prego steak sandwich or a picado, a dish of cubed beef with chips.
Surfers’ etiquette and advice
What matters is your attitude. If a tourist has a bad attitude, the locals won’t like it. There’s a priority system in surfing and you have to respect the right of way. Be cordial – say hello to the locals with a simple “bom dia” (“good morning”) or “tudo bem?” (“how are you?”). Be respectful and please take your litter away with you.
Madeira is an island in the middle of the ocean, so there are sharks, but I’ve never heard of an attack. We also have jellyfish, but their sting isn’t too severe. The one to look out for is the Portuguese man o’ war – apparently their tentacles can stretch up to 30 metres.
During lockdown, I didn’t surf for a couple of months, but when you go back, it’s like riding a bike – you never forget how to do it.
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