The approach on foot to Hell Bay is like no other introduction to a hotel. In contrast to what its name suggests, this blue-and-white painted hotel on the island of Bryher, in the Isles of Scillies, is more heavenly than hellish, and the short stroll from the quayside towards it, gives you the first glimpse of what’s to come.
After hopping off your boat transfer on Firethorn (the vessel which will take you there from either St Mary’s or Tresco), eschew the offer of a lift in the 4x4. Let your bags go ahead, for the best arrival is on foot. Then with the sapphire-blue sea behind you, follow the winding, sand-sprinkled lane, trimmed with blackberry bushes, sea-grasses and nodding lilac agapanthus. You’ll pass honesty boxes selling local farm produce and little stalls with succulents for sale, and then you’ll happen upon the tiny All Saints Church – its stained glass windows glinting in the sun.
Eventually, with rolling fields on all sides of you, the sea twinkling beyond, you’ll catch sight of Hell Bay Hotel ahead. Found in a secluded cove, and made up of a collection of higgledy-piggledy buildings housing just 25 suites, it is infused with the scent of salt air and aromatic plants from the garden. It is quite possibly the perfect coastal retreat.
Compared to the four other inhabited Isles of Scilly, Bryher is the smallest (at just one mile in length and 0.5 miles wide). It is found some 30 miles off the coast of Cornwall and has a remote feel and an untamed appeal. Here, the Atlantic rollers crash without inhibition, the landscape feels wilder, with its moors and granite hills, and the beaches are more-often-than-not deserted.
Hell Bay Hotel is found on the rugged west coast and, from every window, you’ll see the sea shimmering in the sunlight, the beach just steps from the threshold. Owned by the Dorrien-Smith family, who also own the Tresco estate, it has an cheery Hamptons vibe with nautically-inspired décor, Lloyd Loom woven furniture and seashore detailing – such as scallop-shell-printed textiles, wood-clad walls and sleek all-white bathrooms. In each of the bedrooms, walls are adorned with art by local artists while, in the lounge, the Dorrien-Smith’s impressive collection of bright and bold Modern British art gives the sense that you are hanging out in a mini gallery (albeit with cosy chairs and snug sofas). The lounge is the main hub of the hotel, segueing into the bar area and an outdoor terrace. You can dine here or have pre-dinner drinks before going through to the dining room – which is light and airy, but, actually, nowhere is overly formal – this is the very essence of laid-back chic.
Overseeing the Three Rosette kitchen is head chef Richard Kearsley. His artfully-executed dishes celebrate local produce – with vegetables grown feet away on the island’s farm, beef from Tresco, and freshly-caught shell fish from the surrounding waters, as well as artisan produce from Cornwall. Fish – understandably – is a focus: there’s Red Mullet Escobeche, Hell Bay Bouillabaise, just-caught Butter-smothered Lobster and Hake with Aubergine Caponata. Desserts are crowd-pleasers, so be prepared to find it difficult to choose between the Sticky Toffee Pudding, Hot Chocolate Fondant and Caramalised Lemon Tart.
Richard also oversees the Crab Shack – dubbed the Scillies’ ‘best-kept secret’ – which is found in a stone barn on the beach close to the hotel. The menu here is wonderfully simple – and that’s the appeal, of course. There’s scallops or mussels to start, whole Bryher crab for the main event, and Eton Mess or Cornish cheeses to finish. The crab is sourced from Bryher’s Island Fish – run by the Pender family (who have been fishing these waters for hundreds of years) and is so fresh that fisherman Mark Pender has been known to turn up at the Shack with extra crabs if supplies run short.
As well as a small heated outdoor pool and The Treatment Shed – where you can enjoy massages and facials, there is a dedicated yoga studio for Vinyasa classes (on Wednesdays and Sundays). But, really, Bryher is all about getting out and about, the wind in your hair and the fresh air in your lungs. The island is criss-crossed with tracks – so nowhere is really out of bounds. Sheltered bays and idyllic beaches prove idyllic spots for picnics – make sure you stop off at Veronica Farm for some of the most buttery, homemade fudge you’ll ever taste. For those wanting to get their feet wet, head to Hut62, at Green Bay, where you can rent a sailing boat for fishing or visiting other islands, or try your hand at paddle-boarding or kayaking.
The hotel also runs a variety of retreats – from yoga to bird-watching breaks to see the spring and autumn migrations. The island is renowned for its birdlife, with swallows, warblers and rapters frequently flitting past your bedroom window and starting your day with joy.
Come evening time, head to the hotel’s sunset deck – where two deckchairs await (put up the flag to show its occupied and you won’t be disturbed). Here, you’ll catch the last of the day’s rays – the sky turning the palest pink, streaked with gold and amber. It could be the closest thing to heaven.
Tucked away in a secluded cove on the tiny island of Bryher, 30 miles off the coast of
Cornwall, in the Isles of Scilly is a luxurious hideaway: Hell Bay Hotel. The elegant New
England-style oasis has its own sense of place, tranquillity and comfort – and all in a
remarkable and intimate setting. Along with unspoilt Atlantic Ocean views, the hideaway
also carries the accolade of being England's most westerly hotel. Bryher’s sole hotel exudes
laidback luxury; attention is given to every detail throughout its lounge, bar, restaurant and
25 suites.
