In-the-know travellers are already familiar with the Caribbean-esque white beaches and turquoise coves of the Outer Hebrides.
On a sunny day, the deep cobalt Atlantic ocean matches the brilliant blue skyline, making the sparkling shores of this remote archipelago off the north-west coast of Scotland look positively tropical. Inland, things take a turn for the dramatic, with scenery that wouldn’t look out of place in Game of Thrones: think rugged mountains, moody, heather-lined moors and expansive lochs, shrouded in history.
But aside from drinking in all those breathtaking vistas, there’s another reason to visit this unique part of the world. Thanks to more than 120 galleries and studios, the Outer Hebrides is also home to one of the UK’s most flourishing art and design scenes. From highly covetable homewares to “ooh, where’s that from?” contemporary jewellery, the shores and moors are awash with one-off art, textiles and design items that are worlds away from anything found on the high street.
The best way to uncover the most covetable pieces? Spend a few blissed-out days island-hopping, combining your checklist of must-see attractions and beach stop-offs with an arts-based itinerary. As one of Europe’s last untouched natural habitats, most of the 200 islands in the Outer Hebrides are uninhabited, so this trip concentrates on some of the archipelago’s major islands, specifically the arty hubs of Lewis and Harris, North Uist and South Uist. Don’t forget to bring an empty suitcase …
Getting there
There are two ways to arrive on the Outer Hebrides: by air or by sea. There are several flights from UK airports – connecting through Edinburgh or Glasgow – to Stornoway each day. If you’re travelling by car (recommended for this trip), bike or foot, then catch the ferry from Ullapool on the mainland to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis (three sailings a day, from £7).
Isle of Lewis and Harris
For an epic start to the trip, get mystical at the Callanais standing stones on the west side of Lewis, 17 miles from Stornoway. Feel the millennia of Earth’s vibrations through these big slabs of Lewisian heft, thought to be around 5,000 years old, and speculate what the circular formation might mean. An ancient clock? The centre point of a pagan ritual? The jury is out.
The second most famous historical item to originate from the Isle of Lewis and Harris is a little more straightforward – Harris tweed. It’s not hard to see why the appeal of this traditional, centuries-old handwoven cloth endures.
Next, head to the northernmost point of the Hebrides, Port of Ness. In summer, it’s a peaceful little village, with colourful fishing boats bobbing in the sea. By winter, the area feels the full force of the Atlantic, with big waves crashing on the shore and turbulent grey and misty winds taking over. It’s worth holding out for a visit towards the end of the year, as the chances of viewing the elusive and illuminating Northern Lights increase.
At the heart of this community there’s a collection of talented artists to be found. At Buth Lisa Open Studios, Alison Macleod of Tiger Textiles gives Harris tweed a modern twist by stitching Gaelic songs and poems into the fabric. Alongside this intricate textile work, she also creates pencil drawings and mixed media pieces.
A trip to nearby Callicvol Quilts is highly recommended – who wouldn’t want to be swaddled up in a soft, handmade quilt in shades of moorland heather? Quilt-maker Janet Robson creates these cosy works of art, inspired by the ever-changing seasonal colours of the terrain from her studio window.
From Port of Ness, it’s a 40-minute drive back down to Stornoway, where you can learn all about the history of the famous tweed at the Lewis Loom Centre. There are some fantastic emerging designers to be found in Stornoway too – including Rosie Wiscombe, who crafts contemporary bags, hoodies and jumpers in Harris tweed; or elegant jewellery made from silky-looking “sea glass”, which has been battered by the ocean, found on local shorelines, and transformed by family-run Salka.
Speaking of beaches, would it shock you to learn that a coastline rivalling Brazil, South Africa and Florida, is just 45 miles away? Luskentyre has appeared in several best beaches in the UK or world lists, and is often compared to the sandy coves of the Caribbean. With powdery, soft white sand underfoot, and the gently lapping aquamarine sea nearby – all that’s missing is a tropical rum cocktail. As this is Scotland and not Saint Lucia, have a wee dram of the local Abhainn Dearg whisky instead.
The valley community of Tarbert is around 20 minutes drive to the west, and is home to Essence of Harris, which has been making hand-poured candles since 2015. If you’re feeling inspired by your trip, bespoke candles are also available. Lighting one back home will be just the antidote for any post-holiday blues.
North Uist
To continue the hunt for more Highland treasures, you’ll need to jump on an inter-island ferry to go south from Harris to North Uist (singles for the one-hour Leverburgh to Berneray journey, £3.60). This is the one time that the old cliche about the journey being as important as the destination actually rings true: check out all the wildlife as the ferry glides from isle to isle. From birds of prey like white-tailed eagles to seals, dolphins and even the occasional whale, this trip is practically an aquatic safari.
It is easy to see how a Thai tourist guidebook mistook Berneray island for one of its own. Sweeping, bright-white shoreline? Glistening, gentle blue sea? Check and check. Go on, take a photo and see if anyone else is able to tell the two pockets of paradise apart.
Now it’s time to dip back into all things creative with the Uist sculpture trail. Seven commissioned pieces by local artists found installed across North and South Uist and Benbecula. Keep an eye out for a 4.5-metre (15-foot) mackerel as part of the project.
Stationery fans will be drawn to Sollas Bookbinding, run by Corinna Krause, who learned her craft from a master bookbinder in Germany. Alongside her traditional books, Krause also has an ingenious use for kids’ drawings – she can turn them into cover art for notebooks. That’s Christmas presents for the family sorted then.
Around a 25-minute drive away from Sollas town, in Locheport, is Shoreline Stoneware, taking inspiration for pottery work from the wild beauty of “found items” along the coast. Pieces are finished with the traditional Uist glaze for an extra layer of ethereal sheen. It’s definitely worth making room in your suitcase for one of the shimmering rock pool bowls.
Less than a 10-minute drive away in Clachan, combine a spot of lunch with some handcrafted jewellery shopping. Hebridean Smokehouse has earned a reputation for some of the tastiest smoked fish in the country – and comes approved by Great British Bake Off’s Prue Leith – but it’s got to be the one of the only places in the UK where you can pick up both some peat-smoked scallops and a delicate silver shell pendant. There are lots of pretty mementos to take home here – especially if you’re a seafood lover.
The Scottish highlands are one of the few places on earth to see the natural phenomenon of machair, a low-lying grassy plain that carpets much of the grazing land along the coasts. While the east side of the Uist islands tend to be wet moorlands and mossy, peaty expanses set around lochs and at the foot of mountains, the west side is more lush beaches and flowery meadows and is particularly prevalent in the natural beauty of machair. Around August is when it hits its peak, and the “sea meadows” as it is known, is full of red and white clover, buttercups and orchids all swaying in the breeze.
South Uist
With summer nights stretching long past 10pm this far north, the golden hour just before sunset is made for some loch-side loitering. At the north of the island is the breathtaking Loch Druidibeg, part of a national nature reserve that boasts the mountains of Hecla and Beinn Mhor as a backdrop. Over 200 different species of flowers have been recorded here and the calm water setting attracts some impressive island wildlife. City life feels light years away here, and it’s easy to fall into a peaceful lull alongside so much natural beauty.
There’s just time for a few final stop-offs to look at some local talent. Lochdar is famed for the traditional Celtic designs that appear on the work of Hebridean Jewellery. The craftsmen are led by John M Hart, whose father was one of the pioneers of the revival of Scottish jewellery in the 1940s, so there’s heaps of history woven into their pieces.
A final 30-minute drive south through more majestic scenery will land you in West Killbride (Cille Bhrighde), where you can drop in to Hebridean Woolshed, which spins, knits, crochets and weaves skeins of wool from local Hebridean and Cheviot sheep. Come for a crocheted teapot stand, leave with a beautiful hand-knitted jumper and a long-lasting memory of your time here.
To find your very own artist’s retreat, search Airbnb homes in the Outer Hebrides
