For many, a visit to Copenhagen means minimalist fashion boutiques, natural wine bars and soaking up the contemporary design scene. Turns out you can do those things with a baby – and see a different side to the city, as well.
Danish babies cry less than those in any other country (true) and it might just be because their capital city caters for their every need. Almost everywhere has a clean, functioning baby change and is accessible for prams - if it’s not, you can safely leave yours outside and not worry about it being pinched (imagine parking your YoYo outside a bar in London and expecting to see it again). The low crime rate makes it one of the safest cities in the world, ideal for parents with a little one and a mountain of their stuff in tow.
Plus, Copenhageners know how to enjoy life. Many people finish at 4pm, when the roads swarm with Christiania cargo bikes ferrying little ones from nursery and school, and the parks and street cafes buzz with happy families and cute Nordic cherubs in bonnets.
Where to Eat
Any visit to Copenhagen surely centres around its bakeries, which come into their own when you have a baby - a warm, sweet-smelling place to feed? Perfect. Lille in hipster Refshaleøen has a lovely communal feel, with long wooden tables (not high stools, crucially) and any pastry there is a good pastry. Ditto Alice in the family neighbourhood of Amager, which has opened a cosy cafe. If the weather is nice, sit outside Hart Bageri in the Meatpacking district Kødbyen and enjoy a black sesame cookie.
Street food lovers should head to Reffen, the largest street food market in the Nordics and an urban playground that’s open every day from April to October. Think brightly painted stalls serving global cuisine (we had excellent Nepalese dumplings and local liquorice ice-cream, which is more of an acquired taste), a brewery and views of the harbour - there are often concerts, kids’ activities and the baby was entranced by the bright colours and crowds. Locals rate the Nordic Hotdogs with toppings like remoulade and pickled cucumbers and the Indian butter chicken.
Sicilian-influenced restaurant Mirabelle in Nørrebro has a sourdough bakery on site. Need I say more? The charming staff couldn’t have been more helpful in making sure we had enough room for the pram and swiftly bringing out plates of homemade mozzarella and stracciatella, while the baby napped.
And if evening meals out aren’t always possible after the baby has gone down, forage for Danish specialities at deli Helges Ost in Fredericksberg - don’t miss the gammel knas cheese.
Where to Shop
Fredericksberg is a historic neighbourhood full of grand houses, which has become a hotspot for cool independent shops, high-end chains (think Aesop and the like) and people watching.
Don’t miss interiors shop Dora, which has enough space to push a pram around and where I bought some charming vintage wooden animals, as well as a collapsible water bottle that fits perfectly in the buggy’s coffee holder. Head to Studio Arhoj in the city centre for fun ceramic and glass figures (that you can watch being blown) with circular eyes - we now have two in the nursery. Small independent shop Made for Me in Gammelholm, is great for gifts and accessories by Danish designers - stop at Elis, on the same street, for a sea buckthorn sorbet afterwards.
And don’t forget all the excellent museum shops Copenhagen has to offer (after you’ve enjoyed the exhibits, naturally). Favourites are the Design Museum and the Louisiana art gallery - stylish gifts, lovely handmade ceramics and jewellery, spacious and with a baby change/ café close at hand.
Where to Drink
Copenhagen is nothing without its craft breweries and while you might not be knocking it back while responsible for the welfare of a baby, local parents think nothing of stopping for one - we saw numerous prams outside Brus microbrewery in Nørrebro and at the many eating and drinking spots at Nyhaven - that famous row of colourful houses along the waterfront.
Lazy afternoons lend themselves to Warpigs in the Meatpacking District - a buzzy but laidback brewpub in a former slaughterhouse, serving barbecue and house beers. Despite the slightly unsure staff, it turns out there is a baby change and a Danish family at the next table kindly gave us a nappy when it emerged that we’d left our supply back at the hotel.
For something warming, stop at cosy Christianshavns Faergecafe, in the neighbourhood of Christianshavn - a tavern which was filled only with locals when we turned up - for a homemade schnapps. Our green concoctions were made from fennel, tarragon and the like. We were asked to leave the pram outside, where it stayed safely until we’d seen our shots away.
Where to Stay
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Think family fun in Copenhagen? Think Tivoli Gardens. The second oldest amusement park in the world opened in 1843 and boasts beautiful gardens, non-scary rides and daily theatre shows, for which the Queen of Denmark designs many of the sets and costumes. Even better, you can stay there, in the Nimb Hotel (lartisien.com) - a historic Moorish-inspired oasis that, as one staff member put it, “has Tivoli as its back garden.” The location really is unbeatable.
Guests can enjoy Tivoli at their leisure, with special wristbands that allow VIP access to the entire site and unlimited rides - and meant we were first in line for the baby-friendly options, including the Vintage Cars (he smiled) and Dragon Boats (he cried).
The boutique hotel, built in 1909 as a ‘Bazaar’ within Tivoli, has a romantic, fairy-tale exterior, festooned with lights. It opened in its current iteration in 2008 and has just 38 rooms and suites, in a ‘quiet luxury’ Scandi style - think warm wood, glass, textured soft furnishings in understated greys, browns and blacks, and antique furniture. TVs are by Bang and Olufsen; coffee machines are Nespresso.
Our Balcony Suite had a spectacular view over the amusement park, perfect to enjoy with an evening beer (the minibar is complimentary). Even better was the giant bathtub, in which we could bathe the baby and both fit inside with room to spare. Toiletries are by high-end Omani brand Amouage and the hotel’s endlessly thoughtful staff left us some baby soap and a story book about a friendly Acorn (so Danish).
Baby also had a beautiful wooden cot, with comfy mattress and a tiny poncho towel - although we decided to enjoy the hotel’s 300 metre squared wellness facility - a hammam, steam area and fitness centre in the basement - without him. Ditto the gently heated rooftop pool, which has extraordinary views over Tivoli’s famous wooden rollercoaster, and is something of a rarity in Copenhagen.
Breakfast is a seemingly neverending (this is a good thing) continental buffet in the Nimb Brasserie, where you can also enjoy French cuisine in the evening, while watching Tivoli’s after-dark visitors enjoy the amusements. Drinks are on the rooftop in good weather (it does happen), in the classic American Bar or - my favourite - the Nimb Bar, in a historic ballroom on the first floor and where afternoon tea is also served. Fru Nimb specialises in Danish Smorrebrod open sandwiches, Cakenhagen offers patisserie and the park’s Japanese Pagoda plays host to a rotating cast of Michelin-starred chefs from the world over - this year Scotland, Mexico, France and Spain.
There’s even a babysitting service, via local organisation The Nanny Agency, meaning you can leave your little one in safe hands (we were sent our nanny’s CV in advance) while you enjoy a rare evening meal together and nighttime spin around Tivoli - winning a Toblerone on the amusements has never felt so thrilling.
What to Do
There’s plenty to entertain tiny tots and tired parents. For a break from the buggy, hire a cargo bike from Family Bike - they do regular and electric versions - with seatbelts, rain cover and extra blankets thrown in. Pedal for around 30 minutes to the Amager Beach Park, a 2km man-made beach with sandy lagoons, cafes and cycling trails. It’s also close to the Den Blå Planet - Northern Europe’s largest aquarium - which is essentially an underwater baby sensory experience.
For a relaxing afternoon, sit outside one of the many cafes on Fredericksberg’s main strip and watch the world go by - we’ve never had so many friendly chats with fellow parents, new and old. Wander along Nyhaven or through the Rosenborg Palace gardens, where you could stop for a picnic and plop the baby on a blanket, weather permitting.
Or just stroll. Copenhagen is a small, walkable city - perfect for pushing the pram around and lulling the baby to sleep.
Room rates at Nimb start at DKK 5,400 (£627). Breakfast is an additional cost of DKK 395 (£46).
