Beautiful Beara: a tour through Cork and Kerry’s most rugged peninsula
Start your Beara adventure from Glengarriff, the postcard gateway to the peninsula famed for its hydrangea-blotted streetscapes of pubs, cafes and craft shops. Glengarriff’s woollen mills are worth a peep for traditional sweater seekers, but be sure to take the short boat trip to the botanical delight of Garnish Island, while you’re here. You may even be lucky enough to spot seals basking along the shores of Bantry Bay.
From there, heading south-west on the peninsula towards Adrigole, you’ll discover ancient sites such as the Leitrim Beg wedge grave, before taking in Ireland’s most spectacular mountain road – the Healy Pass. The breathtaking eight-mile route spaghettis across the Caha mountains from Cork into neighbouring Kerry – with awesome panorama views from the summit. Once back on sea level, drive to the fishing pier of Killmackillogue to enjoy some fresh-off-the-trawler seafood (think mussels or fresh crab) at Helen’s Bar. 22 miles
Continuing south on the R571 (and back into Cork) you’ll skirt coastal roads, stone walls and sheep farms, while in the distance the famous Skellig Islands burst out of the horizon like emerald pyramids. Some of Ireland’s most beautiful villages await. In Eyeries village, you can sample some Milleens cheese, Ireland’s first artisan cheese made from the milk of Friesians who graze on the peninsula. In neighbouring Allihies, famed for its brightly coloured facades, take a stroll at Ballydonegan beach, visit the quirky local Copper Mines Museum or head to Beara Barista (set in a recycled caravan) for a coffee fix. 43 miles
Bantry Bay seals; houses in Eyeries; the cable car to Dursey Island
Over the bogland to the largest town on the peninsula, Castletownbere, food stops pepper the route: try a delicious chowder in Breen’s Lobster Bar, a pint of Murphy’s in McCarthy’s and sample a taster at the Beara Distillery, where the gin is infused with sugar kelp and sea salt. 50 miles
And don’t forget some island hopping. Bere Island (population 167) is just a short ferry ride away and is home to a hiking loop that takes in the spectacular Ardnakinna Lighthouse. For the more adventurous, board Europe’s only ocean cable car to Dursey Island. Here, on Ireland’s most south-westerly point, you can hike to the island’s tip, where you can enjoy some of Ireland’s most dramatic cliffs without a single soul around. 65 miles
Galway’s Gaeltacht: from enigmatic Connemara to the ancient Aran Islands
With the cultural hub of Galway city in your rearview, head westwards on the Wild Atlantic Way towards Connemara; the country’s largest Irish-speaking – or Gaeltacht – region. Known for its ethereal landscapes of lakes and mountains, bays and blanket bogs, a Connemara road trip is pure Hibernian heaven.
It doesn’t take long to feel the heart of the region. Park up in the villages of Rosmuc or Carna and in welcoming pubs like Tigh Mheaic (pronounced Tyge Mack’s) and you’ll find one of the few spots in Ireland where anglophones form the minority. That’s no reason to fret – if you don’t master any of the impenetrable local dialect, a simple sláinte (cheers) should get you by. 51 miles
Dry stone walls on Inishmore, Galway; Dun Aengus cliffs on Inishmore; Connemara Smokehouse
To take the full immersion up a notch, pay a visit to the Aran Islands – the culturally buoyant Gaeltacht archipelago off the coast of Galway. From the fishing village of Rosaveel you can catch a direct ferry to the largest island of Inishmore, where you can take part in an eclectic range of activities – from exploring the ancient fort of Dun Aengus to finding your Celtic zen with a class at Earth Sea Sky Yoga. 51 miles*
Once back on the mainland, head west towards the Connemara Smokehouse in Ballyconneely to savour one of the real local delights – deliciously fragrant beechwood smoked salmon. But that’s just the starter. Head west to Clifden, the region’s largest town and self-titled capital of Connemara, to indulge in the bustling market town’s vibrant food scene. For the perfect sampler, head to the Connemara Hamper shop to stock up on some delicious picnic staples (think fresh-baked breads and preserves) before embarking on a hike through Connemara national park. 108 miles
Afterwards, head to Mitchell’s Cafe at Kylemore Abbey – an 18th-century demesne and one of the country’s most majestic estates that does a mean Sunday roast. Wellness lovers can treat themselves to a saltwater seaweed bath in the gorgeous village of Leenane before looping back to Galway. Just don’t forget to stop at the spectacular Lough Shindilla en route. 160 miles
*There is no car ferry to the Aran Islands - car parking is available on the mainland
Northern exposure: a road trip through the wilds of Donegal
From putting eagles to golden eagles and surf lessons to music sessions, Donegal is Ireland’s ultimate outdoors paradise, all served up with a hefty side of “craic”. An added bonus? It seems that tourists peter out blissfully here with every passing mile. Start your journey south in the seaside town of Bundoran; once famed for its slot machines, today more celebrated as Ireland’s surfing capital. You can grab a lesson at the friendly Bundoran Surf Co before carbing up in one of Bundoran’s great cafes – try the vegan soda bread from green-minded Milish Bakery.
Continue up the rugged coast towards the town of Killybegs, one of Ireland’s busiest fishing ports and home to a stellar catch of top-notch seafood. The competition for the best fish ’n chips in town remains stiff but the Seafood Shack, located right on the harbour, is where you’ll find the locals. 36 miles
The cliffs at Slieve League; Killybegs harbour; surfing at Bundoran
Follow the signs for Slieve League – billed as the highest accessible sea cliffs in Europe, they tower a jaw-dropping 600 metres (1,972 feet) above the ocean. As a result, they offer one of the best photo-ops along the entire Wild Atlantic Way, so arrive here late evening for fewer crowds and swoon-worthy sunsets. The craic continues up the road in the village of Ardara, where pubs such as the Corner House and Nancy’s Bar are known for their warm welcome and fantastically raucous traditional music sessions. 67 miles
Nature lovers should make a beeline for Glenveagh national park – one of Ireland’s best-preserved wildernesses and home to an Instagram feed of fauna, from red deer to golden eagles. You can observe wildlife along the park’s many trailheads but the snow-dusted peak of Mount Errigal at 751 metres (2464 feet) should offer trekkers the most satisfying angles. 106 miles
If that’s not lofty enough, continue on to the Inishowen peninsula, where you’ll have reached the northernmost point of the island. Golf fans can tee off in bracing links courses like Ballyliffin, while you can make Lily’s Bar in Malin your 19th watering hole. Come nightfall, venture outside and keep your tripod at the ready – given its latitude, Donegal is also known to experience displays of the northern lights. 170 miles
Fill your heart with Ireland
From the Causeway Coast and the Wild Atlantic Way to Ireland’s Ancient East, and the 11 cities in between, Ireland has plenty to explore. Now’s the time to start. Get inspired at ireland.com
