It’s no surprise that Ireland’s Ancient East casts a powerful spell over travellers. Think more than 5,000 years of history, spectacular natural scenery, dramatic ancient ruins and a rich local culture all framed by the majestic River Shannon and the rugged coastline of the Irish Sea. And, unlike many European destinations, Ireland really is a country where the best things in life are free … or, in the case of a perfect pint in a centuries-old Kilkenny pub, less than a fiver.
For travellers on a budget, driving is easily the cheapest and most rewarding way to get around the country, and Ireland is a land that richly rewards travellers who get off the beaten track. Highlights for most visitors tend to be the places and faces they discover along the way; that impromptu folk session in a tiny village pub, the local artist who invites them into the studio for tea, a deserted stretch of golden sand at sunrise. This makes Ireland a nation with plenty to offer visitors on a budget, particularly given that Irish Ferries services start from £79 per car – meaning that taking your car on holiday is easily the cheapest way to drive the Emerald Isle.
What to do
This is an island fond of a good yarn, full of myths and legends about the epic adventures of heroes and villains, knights, kings, monks, Vikings, Celts and feuding family dynasties. Get a whole lot of history for €8 (£7) at County Kildare’s Castletown House, Ireland’s largest Palladian manor. Built for the wildly wealthy (and morally dubious) politician William Conolly, who rose from humble origins to own some 100,000 acres of land, Castletown became a symbol of his great wealth and makes for a fascinating introduction to Georgian architecture and design. Also in Kildare is the National Stud and Gardens; visitors can take a guided tour of the farm and catch a glimpse of one of the equine sporting legends who call it home, such as the now-retired Hurricane Fly, one of the best hurdlers of all time. There’s also a world-renowned Japanese garden and Kids Zone to explore.
To the north, in County Meath, you’ll find Newgrange, a dramatic passage tomb dating back to 3,200BC that predates the Egyptian pyramids. Mystery surrounds this large circular mound with an inner stone passageway and chambers; at dawn on the winter solstice, a shaft of light from the sunrise illuminates the stone burial chamber, hinting at Newgrange’s religious significance in the past.
History is never off the menu in Ireland and simply wandering the narrow lanes of Kilkenny’s Medieval Mile is a swift way to get to the heart of Ireland’s medieval capital, with Kilkenny Castle, St Canice’s Cathedral and Rothe House all in a compact quarter.
Eat and drink
No trip to Ireland is complete without nourishing the body as well as the soul, and, happily, Ireland’s Ancient East offers countless low-cost culinary delights. Ireland’s gastronomic scene is currently enjoying a resurgence, with exciting young chefs honing their craft overseas before returning to their homeland to launch pioneering new restaurants and pop-ups. The quaint harbour town of Dungarvan is a good place to start, perched at the mouth of the River Colligan in County Waterford and lorded over by the Comeragh mountains. Regular farmers’ markets and fairs showcase local suppliers, while chef Paul Flynn’s fine dining Tannery Restaurant offers a pleasingly affordable bite of Ireland. The multi-course €35 set menu is a particularly good deal.
A more casual feast can be had at Foodworks in Kilkenny, which features a rotating menu of mostly local ingredients such as Irish venison, 21-day dry-aged Hereford steak and home-reared pork. Foodworks makes a particularly great feeding station before a tour of Kilkenny’s Smithwick’s brewery, which charts the 300-year heritage of Irish ale in beautiful Victorian premises.
For classic Irish pub grub, make for Kyteler’s Inn in the heart of Kilkenny, where chef Margaret Kelly serves a poshed-up version of gamey Irish stew alongside plenty of beer on tap – while the occasional impromptu music session takes place in the corner.
Where to stay
A highlight for road-tripping visitors in Ireland is the wide variety of affordable accommodation on offer, from historic village inns to grand Georgian country house estates. Springview Farmhouse was named Irish B&B of the Year in 2017, and with prices starting from €30, this late 18th-century home, set in a working farm in County Kilkenny, makes a great budget option. Woodenbridge hotel & lodge in the Vale of Avoca, County Wicklow, claims to be the oldest hotel in Ireland, dating back to 1608. With beautifully landscaped gardens overlooking the serene Aughrim River, just 44 miles from Dublin, it makes a great base for exploring Ireland’s Ancient East.
Meanwhile, Finnstown Castle hotel is an ivy-strewn Georgian manor house set in a 45-acre estate. But don’t let the imposing architecture and grandness of the rooms fool you; the pub and restaurant are beloved local haunts, making for a reliably convivial atmosphere.
Explore Ireland from the comfort of your own car with Irish Ferries. Services run between Holyhead and Dublin; and Pembroke and Rosslare, with up to eight sailings per day. Dublin crossings take either two hours (on the Dublin Swift) or 3 hours 15 (cruise ferry). Prices start from £79 per car, plus driver each way. For more information see www.irishferries.com.
