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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK

Northern lights, reindeer herding and Sami culture: welcome to Swedish Lapland

forest trails at the aurora safari camp
Dog sledging could be a highlight of your trip. Photograph: Fredrik Broman

Described as the last wilderness of Europe, Swedish Lapland is located in the northernmost part of the country. The landscape, which covers about a quarter of Sweden, is varied, with steep mountains, frozen lakes, deep forest and the 1,300 beautiful islands of the Luleå archipelago. Untouched by the relentless buzz of modern life, Swedish Lapland offers a rare opportunity to truly relax and enjoy time getting to know the people of the region and their arctic way of life.

The Sami people

Their land, which they call Sápmi, spreads out across Swedish Lapland’s 30,000 lakes, over 300km of coastline, all of Sweden’s four national rivers and its highest mountain peaks, including Kebnekaise. On your trip to Swedish Lapland, you’ll have opportunities to meet the Sami, listen to their stories meet the reindeer and learn more about their Arctic lifestyle in a world that is ever changing.

winter outdoor cooking
Outdoor winter cooking. Photograph: Fredrik Broman

The food

With fresh fish (including salmon, grayling, brown trout and whitefish), reindeer, elk, Kalix löjrom (the bleak roe that is the “Russian caviar” of the north), and forests full of berries, including blueberries and lingonberries, the food in Swedish Lapland is as locally produced and fresh as it comes. Restaurants serving traditional cuisine are plentiful, but you should also sample the Sami way of life by catching your own fish, making Gáhkku flatbread and eating reindeer or elk meat, all prepared on an open fire.

The northern lights

Have you always dreamt of spotting the northern lights? With the right conditions you can see the northern lights across Swedish Lapland. The Aurora Sky Station is, according to Lonely Planet, the world’s top place to observe this light phenomenon, which occurs when particles from the sun collide with the outer parts of the atmosphere. Located in the Abisko mountains, 900 meters above sea level and in an area with few distracting lights and sound, the Aurora Sky Station’s clear skies make it a superb vantage point for the aurora borealis.

The seasons

The Sami people count eight seasons rather than four, due to the area’s constantly changing climate, which can differ by as much as 70 degrees between seasons. The nomadic Sami travelled with their reindeers from the coast to the mountains over the year and named the seasons according to the needs and behaviour of their reindeer herds. The first season, gidádálvve, is between winter and spring, roughly during March and April, when the days finally start to lengthen. Next comes gída, in April and May, when winter loosens its grip and spring finally arrives and the reindeer goes to the mountains to give birth to calves. Then comes the all-day sunshine of spring-summer (gidágiesse). The first signs of autumn begin to show in tjaktjagiesse (in August), which takes a firmer grip in September and October (tjaktja). In early winter (November and December) days shorten, before the last and longest season, dálvve, sets in between December and March.

The accommodation

Accommodation in Swedish Lapland is varied – you can choose everything from luxury spa hotels to glamping. You could spend a few nights in the boutique tree rooms at Tree Hotel, live in a lavvu tent at the Aurora Safari camp or give yourself a great chance of spotting the northern lights by staying at the original Icehotel. Camp Ripan offers an incredible spa experience, including an outside heated pool that gives a perfect view of the stars above. Swedish Lapland also has a wide range of smaller family owned lodges such as Pine Bay Lodge in Luleå, Forest Hotel in Tärendö, Abisko Mountain Lodge and Kukkolaforsen.

sami village
Swedish Lapland has a rich Sami culture. Photograph: Fredrik Broman

The activities

The only difficulty in Swedish Lapland will be choosing between all the activities available. Dog sledging through untouched snow, ice fishing on a frozen river, snowshoe trekking, skiing, snowmobiling through the vast open landscape and ice climbing are just some of the options.

The clothes

Winter in Swedish Lapland is cold, with temperatures most often between -5 and -25 (and sometimes even colder), so you need to dress accordingly. Wearing three layers is a good way to do this:

  • An inner layer of woollen long johns and a long-sleeved shirt works best – avoid pure cotton, as it traps moisture.
  • A middle layer of fleece or wool isolates air and holds the humidity.
  • An outer layer made of breathable material and wool-lined will let moisture out but not in.

You’ll also need to bring gloves and scarf – and choose shoes that are a bit larger than normal to accommodate thick woollen socks.

Bear in mind, however, that most local companies supply outerwear, including footwear, to keep you toasty warm – so you don’t have to spend a fortune on specialist clothing.

The best time to visit

Wintertime, between November and March, is the most magical time to visit Swedish Lapland. As well as giving you the best chance of catching the northern lights, it’s also the optimum time to enjoy the vast range of winter activities. And don’t worry about the dark – there will be plenty of snow to reflect the light and brighten up the short days.

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