There is nothing quite like the reassuring comfort of fast food after a night on the tiles, devoured while wishing the next day’s sore head away.
But no matter what your age, pay grade or postcode, unless you’re partial to trying a wacky combination of bagel fillings or a bizarre new special by Domino’s, the chances are you’re not going to be able to discover a new delicacy at 1.30am.
That was until last week, when Indegno arrived on the scene. An Italian import, the Brick Lane-based eatery is serving la crescentina, a regional dish from Bologna (also known as gnocco fritto or torta fritta), until 2am on Fridays and Saturdays.
Originating in the middle ages when an excess of lard inspired the peasant population to fry many foods, in this case the thin, crispy fried dough is used to encase a range of fillings and designed to be eaten on the go. Traditional versions of the bite contain mortadella with either stracciatella cheese or Parmesan cream, Parma ham with stracchino cheese, or pancetta with provolone cheese and friggione (a braised onion and tomato sauce). Meanwhile, the quirkier crescentine contain ‘cold cuts ragù’ with squacquerone cheese, grilled porchetta with a potato croquette, smoked scamorza and caramelised onions, or even a generous slather of Nutella and hazelnuts.
Though that’s not all, because Indegno is also dishing up another highly intriguing Bolognese favourite: tortellini and cappellacci fritti, which consists of — you guessed it — indulgent fried parcels of filled pasta served with a silky Parmesan cream. Our advice? Run, don’t walk — but not in heels.
