Named after the ancienttrade routethat hooked up African and European Mediterranean coastal settlementsvia the Levant, Via Maris's menu draws inspirations accordingly.
The boho-chic trattoria at the Sala Daeng BTS end of Convent emergedfrom neighbouring award-winning Vesper Bar's cell division last December.
Itspan-Med theme is mapped outin vibrant hues immediately inside the glass-pane portcullis entrancebyThai illustrator Jayoto who also etched a hip Morocco travel poster opposite. Faux-faded actual maps back the low-profile bar.
Street-side sawtooth red/white tiling flags the door amid a cobalt and ochre palette and a counter with stools. Inside is mostly white brickwork and ductwork dimmed by soft spots aimed at elemental marble-topped tables, 40-odd wooden chairs and de rigeur chalkboard.
Lean, keen Sardinian Francesco Deiana, Vesper's Italian chef before the split, brainstormed the 30+-item menu with restauranteurs Choti Leenutaphong and Debby Tang.
"We did a lot of research of flavours, ingredients and culinary techniques until we made them our ownMediterranean-inspired menu," chef explains.
Sections range Nibbling, Vegetables, From the Coast, From the Land, Couscous & More, Sharing, Sides, and Sweets.
The simple bread basket offers carasausourdough crisps and whole-wheat toast.
A frontrunner, especially among vegetarians, is Cauliflower Steak (370): Israeli style cauliflower milk-poached, roasted, seared, served with tomato in a tart ‘labneh' Lebanese cheese and de-wheyedGreek yogurt creamseasoned with za'atar herbs and cumin.
Via Maris Octopus (550)is Spanish octopus tentaclesous-vide-tenderized, marinated with smoked paprika then grilled, juxtaposed with chickpeas spiked with sweet black raisins. Delish.
Couscous, crushed durum wheat semolina, is the staple that unites the Med's diverse cultures and therefore merits two dishes.
Lamb Couscous (590) features 8-hour-braised lamb shoulder chunks, ras el hanout North African spice and fiery harissa (mostly cumin, garlic and red peppers) baked in a Moroccan tajine like a cereal-based biriyani. This goes brilliantly with a side: Green peas, guanciale, pecorino cheese and mint(290). The seafood "AllaTrapanese" (590) couscous is Sicilian style. Francesco emphasizes the quality of the organically-farmed local produce.
Wrap things up with Basbousa (290), Middle Eastern semolina cakes soused in syrup spiked with cardamom, cloves and star anise. Topped with honey and served with spiced orange yoghurt andchewy dried apricot, much like the savouries, it's Mediterranean mystique you can eat everyday.
Other moreish menu items include:Pork Ribs Fileja (390), Calabrian hand-rolled pasta, nduja, Pecorino Romano; Mediterranean Mess (320),five Mediterranean styles of vegetables; Spanish Surf N' Turf (590)Pays Basque mackerel crispy grilled, spiked with lemon jam, braised leeks and Spanishchorizo; Suckling Pig Roulade (650), saffron & sultanas rice, dates paste, saffron sauce; giant, oblong Pizza Mattone(790), Prosciutto di Parma, dried figs, rocket ORMargherita, nduja, gorgonzola; Australian Wagyu Flank Steak (250 gr - 790/400 gr - 990), lightly seasoned served with red wine jus and cherry tomato; Dates Roulade (290) orange zest, mint, vanilla ice cream, chocolate sauce.
Plus monthly special menus and weekday lunch sets (290/2 courses; 370/3 courses).
The red, white and "orange" (go figure) wines are from Italy,Spain, Portugal. Whites from 1,200-1,900, reds up to 2,500. Four of each by the glass at 240-320.Corkage is freefor every 2 guests + maximum of 5 bottles per table.
Via Maris operates under no service charge policy so prices are subject to VAT only.
Any good? It's buzzing. Say no more.
Open daily 5:30-11pm(last order 10.30pm); Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm. Tel. 02-236-5558.
