For most people who live in Tokyo, trains are the preferred mode of transport, and no wonder: Punctual, plentiful and pristine, they make getting from A to B easier than in almost any other city in the world. But how about the stations in between? To discover some of the hidden gems in Tokyo's quieter neighborhoods, the Keio Inokashira Line is a good place to start.
Connecting nightlife hot spot Shibuya with Kichijoji -- regularly ranked one of Tokyo's most desirable places to live -- via laid-back yet hip Shimokitazawa, the Inokashira Line passes through pleasant residential areas in Shibuya Ward, Setagaya Ward, Suginami Ward and Musashino city, several of which host university campuses. Tracing the map from Shibuya Station, I noticed that the line meets up with the Kanda River at Takaido Station and then snakes alongside it all the way to Inokashira Park, clearly related to the train line's name.
Tokugawa times
Within the park, Inokashira pond is fed by a spring at its western end. The water bubbling up from this spring is said to have been used for tea by shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu because it was so clear.
This natural spring is the origin of the Kanda River, an aqueduct that became a source of clean water for Edo, modern-day Tokyo.
The Kanda River is thought to have its roots in Tokugawa Ieyasu's time, but the history of how it was later developed from its Inokashira source is a bit murky, Prof. Mitsuo Nesaki and Hiroshi Kamiya, researchers at Hosei University, explained. What is evident, they said, is that the aqueduct was key to the development of Edo in its early days.
I traveled the train line upstream along the river and disembarked at Inokashira-koen Station. From the station, the pond is only a short walk beyond the entrance to the park, a popular cherry blossom viewing spot. Reaching the far end of the lake, I found a bubbling spring and a sign in Japanese announcing its name as Ocha-no-mizu -- tea water. I got a buzz imagining a shogun enjoying the same water.
History is not the only thing to be found along this train line. Hopping on and off at different stations, you'll find obscure bars and great coffee, galleries and live music, a small selection of which are found to the right. There is also plenty of nature, not least the Kanda River, which runs crystal clear through reeds and plays host to koi and tortoises at stations like Takaido, Kugayama and Mitakadai.
"Although there is little literature about the Kanda River at the time of Tokugawa Ieyasu, it is thought to have its origin in this period," Mitsuo Nesaki of Hosei University's Faculty of Sustainability Studies told The Japan News recently. "What is evident is that the Kanda aqueduct was important for the development of the city of Edo in its early years."
-- Shinsen: Classy backstreets
Shoto Museum of Art was designed by Seiichi Shirai and much of it is below ground, with a central atrium letting in light. Nabeshima-shoto Park nearby is a calm spot to seek out when Shibuya gets to be too hectic. The pond features an old-fashioned waterwheel and reputedly once belonged to a branch of the Tokugawa family.
-- Komaba-todaimae: Folk treasures
The Japan Folk Crafts Museum, or Mingeikan, is a gem among Tokyo museums. The building feels more like a stately old family home than a museum, and the collection includes ancient and modern craftworks from Japan, the Korean Peninsula and other regions.
-- Ikenoue: Not your usual underground bar
Bar Garigari is more like a psychedelic pop culture explosion than your average watering hole. It also hosts slam poetry, music acts and films.
-- Shindaita: Late-night hangout
Don't go past Bassanova's addictive green curry ramen on the main street, where you can also hear Japanese and foreign bands play any night of the week at Live House Fever.
-- Higashi-matsubara: Old-fashioned quality
Toa Coffee has a real old-school kissaten vibe and was the first Japanese company awarded lifetime membership in the international Cup of Excellence program.
-- Meidaimae: Texas halal
My Dining serves up tasty Tex-Mex food that is also halal.
-- Eifukucho: Green pleasures
Lovers of both tea and sweets will enjoy Chasen, 10 minutes north of the station, where a range of green teas are available for sale, and in latte or ice cream form.
If you have time for a stroll, head to wonderful Wadabori Park, which is loosely spread around the Zenpukuji River and also has some outdoor sports facilities.
-- Kugayama: Local art
Gakatoniwashi is a project between a gardener and an artist where you can take part in art classes or just enjoy an exhibition at Space Pigna on the first floor.
-- Mitakadai: Hidden haunt
Karin to Kotora serves up excellent teishoku set meals in a modern rustic setting.
-- Inokashira-koen: Source of history
Take your time strolling around the pond to find Ocha-no-mizu (tea water), next to Inokashira Park Zoo. The popular Ghibli Museum is also nearby.
Rowboats and paddleboats shaped like swans can be rented from a pier in the center of the pond.
Read more from The Japan News at https://japannews.yomiuri.co.jp/
