For over a decade, HRH Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana has shown a flair for fashion design. The founder and creative director has explored various themes and developed innovative dressmaking techniques that put Sirivannavari Bangkok on the map.
Highlights from each collection have been curated for the "Universe Of Sirivannavari: From Paris To Phuket" exhibition, running until May 26, at Floresta, the luxury zone of Central Phuket.
The immersive exhibition is staged in an elegant white gallery, whose dim interior is defined as the "Infinity Space", roofed by rippling images of paintings by the multi-talented Princess.
The illustrations are related to the collections, which began with "Presence Of The Past" in 2008. Archaic Thai elements harmoniously merge with modern fashion in the designs of the outfits. Fabrics include Thai silk with traditional patterns, produced by Bang Sai Arts & Crafts Centre of Her Majesty Queen Sirikit of Thailand, while Thai architectural motifs and woodcarving appear on jewellery.
Rock music of the 1970s-80s and the art of bondage photography inspire the "Ethnic Rock" collection, whose designs synchronise contrasting elements as well as strength and softness through a tailoring process for the spring/summer 2009 pieces.
The Princess' personal experiences, particularly injuries from horse-riding accidents, along with works by Leonardo da Vinci, Damien Hirst and Frida Kahlo influence the "Human DNA" collection for spring/summer 2014.
Besides the "X-Ray Collage" print, the ready-to-wear pieces are characterised by sports couture silhouettes with subtly concealed cutting and pattern-making details, reminiscent of meticulous refinement of haute couture. The futuristic form further gives a fresh and modern feel while flattering the wearer's figure.
The spring/summer 2015 collection further features structures and tailoring techniques developed by the Princess, whose key designs recall Napoleonic uniforms, with details from the Neoclassic and Roman eras. The signature print is taken from her illustration of Neoclassical lucky charms with a Dadaist twist.
Released in the same year, "Sirivannavari Couture" is inspired by patterns drawn from exquisite Thai silk evening gowns worn by Her Majesty Queen Sirikit on state visits overseas.
Referencing traditional Thai costumes, such as those characterised by the shawl-like sabai, the contemporary designs boast delicate silhouettes and precise cutting, achieved by the couturier's own techniques. French techniques bring out the beauty of Thai embroidery on the silk, enriched by handmade floral embellishments from Her Majesty the Queen's Support Foundation.
Flowers also bloom in the "Mystical Garden" collection, influenced by Romanticism and Impressionism, particularly works by Monet and Renoir. The concept of the spring/summer 2016 collection actually sprang to mind when the Princess was sitting on a bench, sketching a picture at Chateau de Versailles in Paris.
Sources of inspiration include the Princess' poems. A love story between a gentleman and a sea goddess is interpreted as the "Serenity" collection, released in 2017 and distinguished by fluid and feminine silhouettes, signature graphic prints and exquisite embroidery.
Likewise, the "Horse, Helen, Henri" collection is based on a poem about a young military officer and a farm girl at the end of World War II. The designs feature varied, complicated silhouettes and structures, as well as dimension-creating details and techniques, such as quilted patterns, pleating technique from Gérard Lognon's studio in Paris, and meticulous embroidery.
The Sirivannavari Atelier and Academy was established as the in-house workshop for couture embroidery. The savoir-faire is showcased, for instance, in feather appliqué blouse, crystal- and pearl-encrusted gown, and African-bead embroidery details in the latest "Abode Of Metamorphosis" collection.
Metamorphosis and mutation transform every living thing on Naravanna, an imaginary planet where the highest stage of artificial-intelligence technology has been achieved while maintaining a rich diversity of nature. Its creatures, especially mutants, inspire a collection featuring graphics evoking AI's mainboard, African-influenced craftsmanship and space-age details.
Until May 26, the "Universe of Sirivannavari: From Paris To Phuket" exhibition is open to the public from 11am-9pm, at The Atrium, Floresta, Central Phuket.
