I first heard of it many years ago while sitting on a beach in the Far East. We had palm trees, white sand and aquamarine water where turtles swam – and there was a Scotsman, freckled and sunburned, arguing that his homeland had better. “Like Sandwood Bay,” he said. “Best beach in the world – and it feels like the last one, too. It’s a hike to get there. You should make the pilgrimage.”
The name stuck in my mind and, over the years, other people mentioned the place: its legendary beauty, its wonderful isolation, and its burgeoning reputation. But it was not until I was searching the west coast for wild-swimming spots between Applecross and Cape Wrath that I found its actual location: the last splash of yellow sand before the top north-west corner of Britain, with a four-mile footpath snaking across the hills to reach it. The whole nature of the trip changed right then. We would do the pilgrimage, working our way north, searching for great swimming and wild-camping spots, and finish at the ultima thule, the legendary goal of wilderness lovers: Sandwood Bay.
We took the train to Inverness and picked up our VW campervan. Having had previous experience of the vehicle’s dimensions, we had insisted on an awning which David, owner of the van, assured us was easily erected: “It’s an inflatable.”
It was late in the day and the grey sky was spitting cold rain, but we wanted to get some miles done. We eventually camped in a car park on the A896, built for hikers planning to climb Beinn Eighe. It was high up on moorland but a short drive the next day would put us in reach of great swimming. The only other occupants, also in a VW, were a French couple. “We love Scotland,” said the woman in a thick accent, “but we ’ad to leave ze coast to escape from ze midgets. Zey are terrible.”
The smiles were knocked off our faces next day when we stopped in Torridon, outside the shop, and within seconds clouds of midges were banging on the doors. It was like Hitchcock’s The Birds but with insects. We ran for it.
Inside the shop, they were doing a brisk business in repellents and face nets. According to urban Scots legend, it was the SAS who discovered that Avon Skin So Soft lotion is actually the best midge repellent. It is a disturbing story, not least for the thought that one of the supposed toughest warriors on earth must have included the lotion in his backpack – presumably next to his cucumber slices and lip salve. I bought a similar product, Smidge, which contains the same active ingredient. My partner Sophie did the best thing and got herself a head net. My daughter Maddy bought an ice-cream. In our own ways, we were ready.
Applecross
I’d marked all the potential beaches and good wild swims on our map (you’ll need four Ordnance Survey sheets to cover the whole coast up to Cape Wrath) and the first spot was a waterfall mentioned in Daniel Start’s excellent book, Wild Swimming. It was a tough start to our journey, but Maddy and I managed to brave the cold rain and enjoy a deep, dark gorge filled with a big, strong fall and a lovely plunge pool.
Further down the coast, we pulled up in a car park for Cruinn-leum beach where we didn’t swim, just wandered. There was a great sand-dune slide at the back and a broad expanse of wader-bird-friendly flats. We parked up for the night in the small car park.
We gave the place 7/10
• OS Landranger map 24
Redpoint
Next day, there was some discussion about wild swimming: is it good for you? Maddy and I maintained that the shock of cold water stimulates the heart; Sophie said she could do that by walking. We dropped her at Diabaig, a beautiful little cove where the coastal road ends north of Torridon village. Nearby, we found some excellent heart-stimulation in a gorge: Coire Mhic Nobuil.
We looped back inland via Kinlochewe on to the B8056 coast road that peters out at a place called Redpoint. From there, we yomped over the grass to the old fishing station. There, on the tiny offshore island of Eilean Tioram, which can be accessed at low tide, we set up camp then swam in clear waters admiring shoals of tiny fish and seaweed beds dotted with starfish. Sophie arrived as the island’s sheep left – they seemed to know the tide was sweeping in to cut us off. That night was my favourite: the calls of the birds and seals, but no midges, just fresh mussels and bread baked in the fire on our very own island.
An utterly magical 10/10
Gairloch/Inverewe Gardens
I had great hopes for Sands campsite north of Gairloch – friends swear by the place – but the midges were feasting when we arrived so we pressed on to Poolewe, hoping for better things, and ended up in a campsite by the road near Inverewe Gardens. The compensations were hot showers, dinner in a restaurant, and a close view of a sea otter foraging along the shore. The gardens are the main attraction and worth a few hours’ exploration. I asked one of the gardeners, happily encased in an anti-midge suit, did she mind the insects? She laughed. “No, they’re only here between May and September.”
7/10
• OS Landranger map 19
Mellon Udrigle
From the gardens at Inverewe, we pushed north on the A832, turning left up a narrow lane and coming across Mellon Udrigle, an absolute gem of a simple campsite overlooking a sandy beach and Gruinard Bay. We blew up our awning and settled in for the summer – at least, we would have liked to. This one is definitely a spot to savour, although our dog, Wilf, disgraced himself on the beach by attempting to make love to a Newfoundland 10 times his size.
“I’m sorry,” I said to its owner. “He likes silky black fur.”
The man shrugged. “They say dogs take after their owners.”
Next day, we dragged Wilf away and kept moving north, stopping to swim at one of the other two stunning sandy beaches in the bay – this one directly opposite Gruinard Island, scene of second world war anthrax experiments. The beach was superb, strewn with shells and sea-urchin cases, and utterly deserted.
9/10
Achnahaird
Ullapool is a great place to stock up for (or take respite from) camping, but we kept going, turning off towards the Summer Isles and discovering the delightful wild beach at Achnahaird. We cooked on an open fire here, chiefly because our gas cylinder ran out and it was Sunday with a bank holiday Monday to follow. Who cares? We were feeling wild and resourceful, loading up with driftwood and making a crab bisque from the products of our lobster pot. There are some great wild-camping spots here.
8/10
• OS Landranger map 15
Lochinver and Achmelvich
An idyllic coastal lane leads north from the Summer Isles and popped us out in Lochinver where – no gas available – we pressed on, stopping at Achmelvich. There are a brace of fabulous sand beaches here and some great snorkelling to be had between them. The sun was out and the water an impossible azure blue. We would have managed without gas, but there is a no-dogs policy at the campsite so we drove on, spending a night in a lay-by between Kylesku and Scourie where the hotel did excellent fish and chips and, next morning, the petrol station provided gas.
10/10 for Achmelvich
Tarbet and Handa Island
This tiny port is on an unfenced lane off the A894. Wild, stormy, very beautiful and with a parking spot that was full of campervans with the same idea. We squeezed in for a swim then headed off, closing in on our final destination beyond Kinlochbervie, where we found a spot to swim off the jetty at Droman. To our shock, a pair of great skuas came and killed an oystercatcher, right before our eyes, then ripped it up. We got out of the water and walked the coast around to the beach at Sheigra, another great place to wild camp.
9/10
• OS Landranger map 9
Sandwood Bay
And now for the finale. We left the car in a small car park by the start of the footpath and set off with camping gear. The path was not particularly lovely, the moorland here not having been well-managed, but things improved drastically as we approached the beach: a great, long view down, then a trek across the dunes and we were diving into clear, cold water – crunch goes the heart, then the serotonin kicks in.
We built a big fire (I’d recommend bringing any wood you need) and camped on the sands, well away from the body of a dead whale (a northern beaked that was already well-rotted). For an hour at sunset, there was midge hell, then the wind rose and within seconds it was blissful, absolute heaven. I raised my hat and drank a dram to that Scotsman who gave me the tip all those years ago.
10/10
• Wild camping is legal in Scotland as long as you keep away from roads and dwellings and leave no trace of your passing. Van hire was provided by Inverness Campervans (01463 2379053, inverness-campervans.co.uk), which rents custom-built vans from £85 per day or £650 per week; awnings, toilet tents and mountain bikes can also be hired
