Koovagam, a tiny village 30 km from Villupuram, is a popular destination for transgender celebrations, drawing spectators from all over India. In the Tamil month ofChithirai(mid-April to mid-May), the 18-day Koothandavar festival takes place, with evocative ceremonies on the last two days. Approximately 50,000 people congregate for the celebration, a time when local enterprises flourish. Residents of the village who work in big cities come back to run small businesses such as flower shops, bangle shops, boutiques, and food stalls. Some engage in making thethaali(sacred yellow thread) as it is the major part of the festival.
In a Tamil version of the Mahabharata, a character called Aravan offered himself as sacrifice for the Pandavas’ triumph in war. It is said he had a boon of marriage before his sacrifice but no woman wanted to marry him as it would mean widowhood. Eventually, it is said Lord Krishna married Aravan after taking the form of Mohini. Lore has it that Lord Krishna grieved for Aravan as a widow. In Koovagam, the rituals trace the legend. Transgender women dress as brides on the 17th day, and the priests of Koothandavar temple tiethaalifor them.
On the last day, parts of the Koothandavar idol is brought from various parts of Tamil Nadu and assembled before being taken on a chariot. Transgender women gather and perform thekummidance as the chariot moves. The crowds then travel a couple of kilometres theNatham, where the priests break the transgender women’s bangles and cut thethaali. Lord Koothandavar, their spouse, has passed away, and they weep in sorrow. The transgender women rub off thekungumam(red turmeric marks on the forehead) and dress in a white sari.
One transgender woman compared her personal life to the annual event in Koovagam. “Our lives are safe and cheerful one day, and then they turn disastrous the next. It is hanging by a thread,” she said.
