Sometimes, even in a city as beautiful as Bruges, the canal cruises, the carriage rides and the Flemish primitive paintings will begin to pall, and the 300-plus types of beer lose their appeal. To get off the tourist circuit and soak up something of the authentic, historic atmosphere, go to one of the hidden gardens of the city’s Godshuizen or almshouses. There are 44 of them in the city but my favourite is De Muelenaere and Sint-Jozef, an amalgamation of two almshouses, with white brick houses surrounding a pretty garden filled with tall trees, shrubs and beds of roses, euphorbia, and geraniums divided by low box hedges.
Almshouses were built in Bruges from the 14th century onwards by wealthy families to house the poor, sick and elderly. As well as a pump and a privy they contained a chapel in which the residents had to pray twice daily for the benefactors. Although each dwelling originally consisted of one room with a tiny attic, they have now been enlarged into bigger flats – but amazingly they still fulfil the same purpose, offering social housing to less well-off, elderly citizens. Praying, though, is no longer obligatory. When I was there a woman appeared at her door, a cigarette in one hand and a mobile phone in the other. She gave me a cheery wave – visitors are welcome to enter the gardens free of charge, from 8am-6pm. They’re a peaceful respite from the bustle of town.
• De Muelenaere and Sint-Jozef, Nieue Gentweg 8-22 and 24-32
