Whether you visit a vintage shop online or in person, it may seem that everyone’s engaged in similar activities. However, each shopper is actually searching for something distinct—a particular clothing or accessory that matches their personal style, taste and lifestyle. These items serve as reminders of specific moments in time and history, making each vintage hunt unique.
The go-to trend for celebrities to showcase their individuality and create new cultural meaning is to now wear pre-loved and rare archival pieces on the red carpet.
My style is quite eclectic, and I’ve spent many years in the fashion industry honing my eye. When searching for vintage pieces, I usually have a specific item in mind and will often explore vintage, secondhand shops, and car boot sales across the country to find it. My first rule is to know exactly what you’re looking for. Having a clear image of the item in mind—including details such as buttons, trims, and zips—can make all the difference. Secondly, it is also helpful to know the season and year the piece was produced, as this can help check an item's authenticity.
Check other websites and retailers selling the same piece, and take the time to research and compare prices across different platforms and channels. This will help you determine whether the item is authentic and ensure you're paying a fair market price.
Finally, always inspect an item thoroughly before purchasing. If you're shopping online, ask for detailed photographs from multiple angles so you can assess any signs of wear or damage. Look out for moth holes, permanent stains, discolouration, and repairs, and be sure to check linings and interior seams, where flaws are often hidden. A careful inspection can save you from making a purchase you'll later regret.
So, there you have it—my top tips for sourcing vintage fashion finds. But if you're still unsure where to start or what to look for, read on. Below, you'll find a detailed breakdown of six typical vintage fashion archetypes, along with my recommendations on where to shop and how to source the pieces you'll treasure for years to come.
The Investment Collector
This collector is searching for an investment piece like no other, the best example of vintage—haute couture, contemporary show pieces and rare antique costumes. In most cases, they’re craving archival pieces from an iconic designer linked to a moment in time from the personal wardrobe of icons and society. Think Zendaya in Thierry Mugler’s couture cyborg suit from the fall/winter 1995 collection, or Rihanna in the blue fur look from Christian Lacroix’s couture fall 2002, any archival Dior by John Galliano, vintage Givenchy by Alexander McQueen or Vivienne Westwood, to name a few. It has to be museum-piece quality, which will always hold its value.
This collector knows the exact piece; it was most probably the one that got away. Firstly, they'll image search the piece and ruthlessly check all the specifics in fine detail; the season, year, fabric, colour, cut. The biggest fear is that the piece lacks provenance and is not in immaculate condition.
Where to look: One of a Kind Archive, Shrimpton Couture, Kerry Taylor Auctions
The Y2K Hunter
What drives this hunter is the influence of fashion as seen on MTV, reality TV, talk shows, tabloid magazines and celebrities, a nostalgic piece that carries the signature of that era. This was the time of the consumer digital revolution.
Many will search solely for styles and silhouettes that signify the era: low-rise jeans, It bags, logos, graphic T-shirts, see-through/mesh tops, and metallic pieces. When hunting for this era, the search begins by typing in 90’s /Y2k and trawling through the listings to find the piece they’re looking for. It doesn’t have to be by a designer unless it’s an It piece or logoed; it’s about getting the balance, mixing old pieces with contemporary styles. The thing that would stop them is price; a lot of these pieces were made of synthetic and futuristic materials, mass-produced and cheaply made. Sustainability wasn’t a big thing back then.
Where to look: Found & Vision, Nordic Poetry, Beyond Retro
The Philophiles
Almost fanatical, the philophile is obsessed with the fashion design genius of Phoebe Philo throughout her career as a creative director. The female designer who single-handedly redefined the contemporary woman’s wardrobe. Her army of loyal followers knows product drops, limited editions and collections inside out. So scarce are pieces available from the collections that defined her tenure as creative director at Chloé, Celine and her eponymous label, Phoebe Philo, that you need to be quick off the mark to nab a piece.
Minimalist, effortlessly casual and cool designs peppered with idiosyncratic details, big mannish shirts and blazers with playful feminine touches. Authenticity is paramount and a Philophile will pay any price for her coveted designs.
Where to look: The Archive Dot, Resee, Vestaire Collective
The Sustainable Shopper
The sustainable hunter has no interest in the throwaway culture of mass-produced fashion; their priority is to create a thoughtful wardrobe. They thrive on reusing vintage and organic pieces to save the planet. It is about a deep-seated passion for craftsmanship, quality, authenticity, history, clothing built to last several lifetimes, not just a season.
Hunting for deadstock and vintage denim, boho chic, ’90s streetwear, and upcycled pieces, they’re looking for affordable clothing and fear being overcharged for preloved now that it’s trendy.
Where to look: Depop, Vinted, Oxfam, Rockit
The Antique Treasure Searcher
A purveyour of antiques who buys into a romantic era and hunts for feminine gems that make you feel like you’ve travelled to a different century. Think of wafting around in faded chiffon tea dresses adorned with floral prints, lacy camisoles, pretty petticoats, Broderie anglaise dresses, embroidered gloves and capes.
No two pieces are the same, and a thorough knowledge of the era will help authenticate and determine a genuine vintage piece. Things that would put them off are signs of damage, permanent stains, fabric disintegration and previous repairs.
Where to look: Circa Vintage, Rockstar Boudior, Annies Ibiza
The Accessory Purist
There's a reason certain bags are never just a fashion statement. The Chanel Classic 2.2 and the Dior Saddle Bag are investments in fashion history that display your individuality and taste. The Accessory Purist looks for the timeless, cool-girl collectables and has a specialist eye for rare Hermès, limited-edition Dior and vintage Louis Vuitton that not only stand the test of time but hold their value and style for years to come.
They hand-pick bags made with craftsmanship, top-notch materials and luxury details you won’t find on the high street. They will pay high prices for a pristine piece with a unique history or backstory and require professional authentication for their purchases.
Where to look: Jean Vintage, Tresor Vintage, Sellier Knightsbridge, What Goes Around NYC
