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The Independent UK

Hayley Spencer

I woke up to views of Switzerland’s most famous peaks at this boutique hotel

Switzerland Wengen (Geopolitical Entity) JRR Tolkien Will Gordon

The first Swiss outpost from the stylish Beaumier group is a welcoming home-from-home offering epic views of the Lauterbrunnen Valley, top-notch gastronomy and a serene onsen-inspired spa

Location

Grand Hotel Belvedere sits atop the charming Alpine village of Wengen. The area, overlooked by the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau peaks, is a Unesco World Heritage Site and is said to have been the inspiration for J.R.R Tolkien’s fantastical Middle Earth.

Wengen is car-free, so to reach it from Zurich airport, it’s around a two-hour drive to Lauterbrunnen train station, where you’ll need to take a 12-minute ride on the historic “Wengernalpbahn” cog railway to Wengen. You’ll be rewarded with thrilling panoramas of the valley as you chug towards the village, where a hotel-branded electric shuttle will collect you and bring you to the hotel.

Take in the mountain view from your balcony (Lucas Dutertry)

If you’re on foot, it’s a short five-minute stroll to the high street, which despite its tiny footprint has an upscale fashion boutique, Berg, an excellent coffee shop named To Go, and a choice of two ski rentals.

Powder heads may already know the area for the famous Lauberhorn course, the longest World Cup downhill run in the world. It’s not for the faint-hearted – though the Jungfrau region also offers plenty of green and red runs, and there are nursery slopes in Wengen centre.

The vibe

Grand Hotel Belvedere is the first Swiss outpost from the stylish French Beaumier group, and the only five-star property in Wengen. Its chic take on Alpine decor is “accidentally Wes Anderson” to a tee.

Geneva firm Complete Works is responsible for the renovation, which saw two grand dames turned into one boutique outpost, connected by a landscaped garden with views of the forest.

Interiors are by Geneva firm Complete Works (Lucas Dutertry)

The first building, housing the reception, is an art nouveau beauty, and inside original Heimatstil frescoes and ornate wooden columns have been restored to their former glory. In the common areas, custom-made pine furniture is finished with tactile mid century-style fabrics and faces either the roaring fire or the outsized windows framing snow globe-worthy views of the Jungfrau.

The art really makes this hotel; it’s a collaboration with local creatives past and present, from black and white archive photos of the village to colourful prints by the likes of Albert Chubac.

The service

Service is refreshingly unfussy for a five-star. Staff are laid-back and approachable, yet efficient. When in need of an adapter plug I called reception and one was sent via room service in minutes.

The team are always on hand to give thoughtful recommendations, whether it’s for shopping, apres or walks.

Bed and bath

There are 90 rooms spread across the two buildings, designed to look like self-contained cabins with pine-clad walls and matching custom furniture. There are 71 Superior and Deluxe category bedrooms, most of which have a cinematic mountain view from a balcony.

Pine-clad walls are featured across the 90 rooms (Grand Hotel Belvedere)

All the rooms have their own desk – ideal for those working away from home or taking inspiration from Tolkien.

Bathrooms are zen and contemporary in design, with mint-coloured tiles and designer taps. They are kitted out with natural toiletries by London brand Grown Alchemist. Most come with rainfall showers, and some have gloriously deep baths for after-ski soaks – though bear in mind when booking that bathtub rooms only come with a wash-off shower head.

The 19 suites include nine family rooms and two premium Beaumier suites. The one in the newer building is the most impressive, with floor-to-ceiling windows and a postcard-perfect view from the balcony thanks to ornate railings and a vintage yellow awning overhead.

Food and drink

Brasserie Belvedere is the hotel’s main restaurant with a hyper-local menu devised by British chef Will Gordon. A light-flooded space with high ceilings, chandeliers and white table cloths, it serves elevated takes on comfort food and Alpine classics, from schnitzel with celeriac to a sensational bourguignon. Gordon is vegan, so the hotel stands out from the crowd by offering a plant-based take on fondu.

Try the plant-based fondue at Brasserie Belvedere (Lucas Dutertry)

The sun-trap terrace is ideal for long lunches. Enjoy a Swiss beef and gruyere burger barbecued in front of you, or snack on charcuterie.

Both buildings have their own bar – one intimate and cosy with William Morris-papered walls, which is perfect for a pre-dinner glass of Swiss white wine; the other with a large diamond-shaped bar where you can see the mixologists whipping up experimental cocktails made with infusions from locally foraged ingredients. Try the mushroom Old Fashioned (yes, really) or a hot Alpine cider.

Breakfast is buffet style with juices, pick-and-mix cereals, granola, meats and cheeses, as well as a hot menu of egg dishes and pancakes. All perfect fuel for a day in the mountains.

Facilities

The hotel recently opened its much-anticipated spa in partnership with Susanne Kaufmann, whose products are rooted in Alpine tradition.

Inspired by Japanese onsens, the concrete-walled enclave on the lower ground floor of the main building looks akin to a Bond villain’s lair. It houses a small indoor-outdoor pool (one side has jacuzzi beds), a hammam, sauna, steam room and cold plunge.

Take a dip in the indoor-outdoor pool which overlooks the forest (Grand Hotel Belvedere)

Treatments include the signature full-body massage and anti-ageing facial. My massage was perfect for bringing muscles overworked on the slopes back to life, and the forest-inspired essential oils smelled divine.

A small gym is located opposite the spa, stocked with Technogym equipment and a smart TV with pre-loaded routines. For yogis, there are regular classes in the yurt overlooking the forest.

If you’re bringing your own ski gear ask about space in the boot room in advance. Or rent from InterSport, whose attentive and efficient staff will kit you out with the latest equipment, or more affordable options if preferred.

The ski teachers are attentive – just the right amount of playful, and they know the slopes like the backs of their hands, so are helpful to skiers of all abilities. Prices for lessons via the hotel start from £260 and rental is from £42 for skis and boots.

There’s also the option of trail running in the snow, glacier climbing and ski hiking.

Wengen has much to offer in the summer months too (and the hotel is open year-round), from hiking to downhill mountain biking and canyoning, all of which the hotel can book on your behalf.

Accessibility

There are two rooms designed for people with reduced mobility at the Grand Hotel Belvedere, with adapted towers and toilets. All facilities in the older building – where the main restaurant and salon bar are – are accessible via the lifts. The terrace has a platform stair lift for wheelchair users.

Family-friendly?

There are interconnecting room options suitable for families. Plus, most rooms come with a sofa bed which can be used for a child to stay in the same room. There is no specific kids' menu, club or specific facilities at the hotel, though the ski school in the village offers excellent lessons for little ones. The spa area and pool are not suitable for children.