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The Canberra Times
The Canberra Times
National
Alex Crowe

I took on the Centenary Trail - here's what I learned

Alex Crowe, Anne Hardwick and Matthew Clacy - two thirds of this group completed the entire Centenary Trail over seven Sundays. Picture: Alex Crowe

It's always a good idea to go for a walk. It's less of a good idea to walk with a hangover, but I can attest to the fact that tackling the Centenary Trail over several Sundays, markedly under-the-weather for some, is doable. Enjoyable even.

On November 1, four recently settled Canberrans set out from Parliament House for what would be the first leg of a friendship-binding pilgrimage.

Before reading on, I should make it clear we weren't the first or the quickest to complete Canberra's most revered walking track. In fact, not everyone even finished. This isn't a hero's tale, this is just a tribute.

Established to mark the city's 100th birthday, the Canberra Centenary Trail is a 145-kilometre loop that takes in many of the capital's best urban and rural environments.

Through bushland, fields and streets, along highways, bike paths and gravel, when done in full the trail provides sweeping views of the city, a learnt orientation of the capital and a fast-tracked connection to her various environments.

The route is marked, mostly clearly, with signs every few hundred metres to point even the most nervous trekkers in the right direction.

There's sometimes places to buy food along the way but packing a picnic to enjoy under a tree is advised.

Conveniently, someone has divided the walk into seven sections to give wanderers the chance to complete the trip in 20 kilometre stretches, so we did.

PARLIAMENT HOUSE TO WATSON: 20.6 kms

Despite intentions to beat the afternoon heat, the first few kilometres through the Parliamentary Triangle and along Lake Burley Griffin had too many coffee and culture stops to see us summit Mount Ainslie and Mount Majura before midday.

For two walking companions, Anne Hardwick and Matthew Clacy, it was their virgin voyage of Ainslie's less celebrated sister. They were not disappointed.

Home to one of the few remaining stands of Yellow Box in Australia, Mount Majura is alive with wildflowers in Spring. Even the bountiful weed, Paterson's Curse, paints a pretty picture swaying in the afternoon breeze and turning the surrounding grasslands purple.

As with all good walks, we came out of the five-hour or so meander to Watson wiser than when we went in.

Key takeaway: it would be handy to have a vehicle waiting at the finish line to avoid Ubering home. Luckily, there were six more Sundays to perfect our approach.

WATSON TO NORTHERN BORDER CAMPSITE: 18km

The second section was probably the worst, and it was still quite good.

The awesome foursome from the Sunday prior became an equally conversation-competent group with two new members, beginning a tradition of switchups as consistent as the hangovers.

With no vehicle access to the Northern Border Campground, the travelling troupe parked up at Mulligans Flat Road Carpark and shuttled forward to Hughie Edwards VC Rest to begin.

Setting off with memories of Mount Majura's majesty, we were instead met with a noisy meander along and under the Federal Highway, the sound of speeding cars broken intermittently with rapid gun fire from a nearby shooting range.

Seeing Mulligans Flat Nature Reserve for the first time was a highlight as was an early lunch on the picnic tables beside the flat's Woolshed.

Key takeaway: if there was an equivalent "last meal in prison" for Centenary Trail section selection, you wouldn't pick this guy.

Mara Dodson, Anne Hardwick and Matthew Clacy prepare to celebrate the successful completion of the Centenary Trail at the brewery. Picture: Alex Crowe

NORTHERN BORDER CAMPSITE TO HALL: 19km

The 14.5 kilometre Northern Border Campsite to Hall Village walk became a 20 kilometre walk from Mulligan's Flat Carpark to Hall Village for these weekend warriors.

While campers would get a head start, those of us who work Saturdays and frequent bars on Saturday nights get to walk a little further.

The extra few kilometres were hardly felt as we wound our way to One Tree Hill, a city summit only accessible on foot.

With expansive views of the Molonglo Valley, Canberra's first surveyors used the high point to review the area and Charles Scrivener let the land below influence his recommendation for ACT's borders and the site for the future city.

Views aside, it's just a really wonderful trail skirting the edge of the capital and providing a better understanding of the layout of the land.

The undulating, mostly dirt track travels through a eucalypt plantation, skirts the NSW border and lands nature lovers in Hall Village, where coffee and wine awaits.

Key takeaway: it might be time to move to Hall.

Hannah Dunne, Anne Hardwick and Myles Gillard on leg three of the journey from Northern Border Campsite to Hall Village. Picture: Alex Crowe

HALL TO BLACK MOUNTAIN: 19.2km

I wouldn't recommend following my directions here. Somewhere between finding a solution for climate change and curing cancer, my chatty mates and I lost our way.

Don't be discouraged, we didn't try very hard to stay on track. It was a case of looking up from an interesting discussion to discover our spidey senses had let us down.

Day four of the Centenary Trail turned into about 25 kilometres. Most of them were quite lovely, a stretch along the Barton Highway notwithstanding.

The chance to gaze longingly into the backyards of the homes along Dryandra Street - I've heard they love that - was worth the miscalculation.

The misadventure was complete with the realisation the keys for the vehicle at the finish were inside the drop off car at Hall.

Key takeaway: Not all ex-boyfriends are bad, particularly those who'll drive to Hall on a Sunday to fetch keys.

Matthew Clacy, Mara Dodson and Alex Crowe approach the National Arboretum. Photo: Anne Hardwick

BLACK MOUNTAIN TO STROMLO FOREST PARK: 21.5km

This leg was the day after my birthday party. It was a struggle.

Starting at the CSIRO car park the heart gets started fast. Following the Summit Trail, those who conquer the climb through the Yellow Box, gums and stringybarks are rewarded with front row tickets to Telstra Tower.

Admittedly, my year 6 excursion to Canberra left me a little perplexed as to why the country was celebrating this colossal concrete structure. Darryl Kerrigan from The Castle always came to mind: "He reckons power lines are a reminder of man's ability to generate electricity."

Telstra Tower has taken on a magnificence in my mind, its giant spire signifying home. Her silhouette as the sun rises and sets behind her, directing me to my apartment in the north. She's become a welcome beacon on the horizon, I get it now.

Now that I am Canberran, Telstra Tower has taken on a magnificence in my mind, its giant spire signifying home. Her silhouette as the sun rises and sets behind her, directing me to my apartment in the north. She's become a welcome beacon on the horizon. I get it now.

I digress.

That Sunday's trail, from mountain to the Aranda Bushland Nature Reserve, through the Cork Oak Plantation and the National Arboretum was special. Finishing at Stromlo Forest Park - another Canberra favourite - made it all the more so.

Key takeaway: don't judge a city on her monuments.

STROMLO FOREST PARK TO TUGGERANONG: 24.4km

The stretch from Stromlo into Tuggers takes in Cooleman Ridge and Bullen Range, as well as offering the opportunity to wash away one's sins in the Murrumbidgee River.

For the adventurer who sets off at midday and finds themselves walking along Kambah Pool Road in the heat, the chance to cool off will present a welcome respite.

With views of the Bullen Range, the river valley trail winds through nature reserves and farmland, with roos, platypus, wombats and water dragons for company.

Lucky it's lovely, because this long walk finished late for these lazy starters.

Key takeaway: inland cities have excellent swimming spots, too.

Mara Dodson, Matthew Clacy and Anne Hardwick on the second last leg of the Centenary Trail. Photo: Alex Crowe

TUGGERANONG TO PARLIAMENT (THE BREWERY): 26.3km

The seventh and final section of the Centenary Trail will probably confuse you. At this point, orienteering confidence is high, the end is in site and talk of beers at Capital Brewing Co. has begun early.

Then Isabella Pond happens, footpaths you're following will disappear and Centenary signs will be scarce.

Persevere, as walkers will be rewarded as soon as they enter the Fadden Pine Plantation with shade and peace and quiet.

While I'd had a few runs around the back of Mawson earlier in the year, this part of Canberra felt like an important discovery for the four of us from foreign states.

The sweet smell of tall pines alongside Australian native flora so close to suburbia, where we could only hear the sound of our footsteps saw spirits soar.

Although, not high enough to see us complete the loop.

While the purist Centenary Trail convert will continue past Mugga Lane to Parliament House, those with a near-enough-is-good-enough attitude will make a beeline from here to the pub.

While the Monaro may not seem a welcome end to a seven week journey, rest assured the road to Capital Brewing has never looked more magical.

Key takeaway: going for a walk is always a good idea, especially if it ends in a hangover.

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