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Manchester Evening News
Manchester Evening News
Entertainment
Jenna Campbell

'I stayed in the Manchester hotel named one of the UK’s best that used to be Mash & Air'

There’s a lot of history within the walls of 40 Chorlton Street. The converted cotton mill in the heart of Manchester’s Gay Village most recently housed a comedy club, but before that it was home to Mash & Air - the celeb haunt boasting a spaceship-like design and amazing culinary credentials.

The game-changing bar, restaurant and microbrewery burst onto Manchester’s dining scene back in 1996 and was the place to be seen in the city. A roll-call of home-grown talent and visiting celebs frequented the spot, from the Spice Girls and George Michael to Coronation Street icons and the Manchester United squad - Sir Alex Ferguson even spent time there, though it included a brief stint stuck in a lift, much to the staff’s embarrassment.

With a trendy brasserie on the lower floor and a buzzing restaurant above, the microbrewery at the heart of the four-storey space inspired the venue’s name - nodding to the brewing process of Mash & Air. Embodying a futuristic white and orange design against an industrial backdrop of exposed brickwork and brewing tanks, it really was ahead of the curve both design wise and in terms of its culinary footprint.

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Sadly, after only four years its creator, Irish entrepreneur Oliver Peyton, shuttered the venue due to a string of burglaries - selling the landmark building in 2000, after which it briefly became a comedy club. Now, after lying empty for several years, it has been reincarnated as a stylish, boutique hotel, and has been named one of the UK’s best by The Times.

Taken over by Manchester-born brothers Joshua and Ben Senior in partnership with Wellbrook Hospitality, Leven opened its doors on the corner of Chorlton Street and Canal Street in late 2021. Spread across the original four floors of the warehouse, as well as a new fifth floor boasting a luxury penthouse, the design-led, 42-key hotel has been sensitively brought into the 21st century, whilst linking back to its historic roots - as we found out on a recent visit.

The former Mash & Air building on Chorlton Street is now the stylish Leven Hotel in Manchester (Supplied)

From the outside, it couldn’t be anymore Mancunian in personality if it tried. Restored red bricks and Crittal windows set the tone - a reminder of the city’s industrial legacy. The original two-storey high loading dock of the former warehouse now serves as the main entrance, nodding to the past once again with exposed brick, vaulted ceilings and cast iron columns. Stepping over the threshold into the cosy lobby and bar space - outfitted with emerald green, fish-scale tiles, playful artworks and perfectly mismatched velvet sofas and fluffy rugs - it’s definitely luxurious, but also feels like home.

It’s a feeling that stays with me throughout my stay, and while I might be slap-bang in the middle of Manchester’s Gay Village - where the party never truly stops - I'm fully able to disconnect from the outside world. The name Leven means “to live” and each of the well-appointed rooms, though slightly more pared back than the lobby area, embodies this feeling of homeliness.

The lobby and bar area at Leven Hotel in Manchester (Heiko Prigge Photography)

Rooms range from the standard ‘Life Size’ to ‘Living The Dream’, the latter being a top-floor, two bedroom duplex. Though in truth, all the rooms feel cavernous, and even the one-bedroom suite I stay in is much larger than my own living area at home.

I’m told by one of the managers downstairs that they have a lot of guests who stay at Leven when stationed in Manchester for work, and while the thought of staying in a hotel for a long period of time might fill some with dread, the hotel’s spacious and light rooms, which in some cases are fitted with a full kitchen and washing facilities, make for a much easier transition.

The bedrooms at Leven Hotel in Manchester (Manchester Evening News)

The room I stay in has a distinct New York loft-style feel, with an open-plan living room featuring a kitchenette, table and chairs and a dark blue velour sofa, which on seeing I immediately sprawl myself across. Coaxing myself away from the television and into the bedroom, a huge bed with leather headboards awaits, as well as a standalone bathtub and a separate bathroom designed to be a minimalist wet room, complete with anti-steam mirrors.

Canal Street is lined with al-fresco restaurants, buzzing bars and late-night hangouts, but Leven’s own lobby and lounge space also proves to be a great place for some people watching. Heading down for a sundowner, the reception desk transforms into a trendy bar, where cocktails, conjured up by the hotel’s friendly team, are mixed, shaken and poured.

Cocktails served at Leven's bar (Manchester Evening News)

We might be in the depths of winter but the mellow summer flavours of 'Peaches & Dreams' are enough to lift that Blue Monday feeling, while the party throwback 'Mash & Air', and 'Respectful Vimto' with popping candy, provide a cheeky nod to the past. It is the very sippable 'Siren' with Seville orange gin, Campari and blood orange syrup that takes the win though - a wonderful winter warmer.

There’s only one thing missing from Leven as it stands - it’s own restaurant. Though to be fair, an Art Deco-inspired restaurant and waterside brasserie are slated to open this year on the ground and lower floors of the warehouse. While it will technically be separate to Leven, the foodie addition - led by Mancunian chef Gabe Lea, who cut his teeth at Michelin-starred establishments - will be an obvious place for guests to visit.

To be honest, it’s hardly a problem given the great spread of bars, pubs and restaurants on Leven’s doorstep including food and drink neighbourhood Kampus just across the canal, home to Pollen bakery, Beeswing wine bar and Yum Cha Chinese. If it’s just a snack you’re after, fridges in the rooms are stocked full of treats from Tony’s Chocolonely bars to gourmet popcorn and crisps - perfect for when you’re soaking in the tub.

The room next to the lobby can be used for co-working and enjoying a continental breakfast (Manchester Evening News)

Come breakfast time, the room adjoining the lobby turns into a breakfast area where you can sample Leven’s house-blend coffee, along with a complimentary selection of cooked meats and cheese, pastries and fresh fruit and yoghurt. Put it this way, you won’t go hungry.

It’s the little touches at Leven that make you feel home - whether it’s the limited-edition, branded socks placed on the bed before you arrive, the carefully curated cocktail menu or design features created to make you feel at home, a lot of thought has been put into creating a slice of calm in the metropolis.

Nightly rates at Leven Manchester start from £89 in a “Life Size” room, and from £299 in a “Living The Dream” two-bedroom duplex penthouse suite.

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