I passed two Saudis debating football with an American on the streets of downtown Doha on Friday night.
Revellers from a mix of World Cup countries surrounded them, singing, dancing and interacting on the approach to the Souq Waqif, the city’s rich, cultural hub.
Then I remembered the footage I’d seen a few hours earlier, of England and Wales fans – some barely able to stand –fighting in Tenerife. Also the supporters, on their way to the England v USA game on Friday, belting out the first expletive-laden chants I’ve heard since I arrived in Qatar two weeks ago.
My goodness, did it rightly underline the wisdom of banning beer inside stadiums out here.
The more mature countries in relation to alcohol have had fun in the sun out here – where with each passing day a country the size of Yorkshire laughs at the pre-tournament panic that it would collapse trying to cope hosting a World Cup.
Forget the football, the dazzling skylines, the vast, gleaming causeways and gloss-finish colonnades. Focus on logistics.
Seven of the eight World Cup stadiums here are only a 25-minute tube ride away. The exception is Al Bayt, where there are buses that will take you the final 10 minutes of the journey.
The transport system is outstanding, fast and easy to use. Twice I’ve left World Cup games – one at the aptly-named Education City – and arrived back at my accommodation in less than an hour.
That’s unthinkable at any other World Cup. Compare that with the carbon footprint at Russia 2018, where for every game outside my St Petersburg base, we had to fly via Moscow to cities where matches were held. And back again.
Or with the frightening climate prospect of the 2026 World Cup, jointly hosted by 16 cities in three nations: Canada, Mexico, and the US.
And all the talk that female visitors to Qatar would be treated badly isn’t reflected here on the ground either. I’ve routinely witnessed the kind of chivalry you pine for back in England on the metro, on the streets, in bars and restaurants and at matches.
That’s absolutely not to suggest the interpretation and handling of laws around female rape victims here do not require urgent review. Nor cases around sex outside marriage.
While filming in public, bare arms and legs were said to have been banned –again, tell that to the people returning home replete with iPhone footage and quite the tan.
I feel safer here in Qatar than I will feel in four years’ time as a Black man in the USA – where you’re never more than a trigger- happy, unaccountable cop away from not going home. You’d also expect, ahead of 2026, the scrutiny on US laws questioning a woman’s right to do as she likes with her own body to increase as it has done here.
Yes, maybe Qatar has probably cleaned up its act for these five weeks.
Just like we did in England in 2012 when rough sleepers, sex workers and other marginal groups were – in some cases – manhandled out of sight for the Olympic Games.
There remain issues here with severely underpaid workers – just as there are in England. And of migrants being treated disgracefully. Just like in England.
Dramatic football and a fun time will never mitigate those problems. Just like in England.
But the empty seats in Qatar’s stadiums are because many around the world were frightened off – and are now wishing they’d come.
Or stayed longer.
