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Daily Mirror
Daily Mirror
Julia Banim

'I holidayed like King Charles for a day - travelling with loo roll got me odd looks'

It's difficult to know whether or not the ticket inspector has shot me a funny look on account of the golden crown I'm wearing, or because I've just set up a framed landscape of the Scottish Highlands on the table before me.

I decide to adhere to the Royal family tradition of 'never complain, never explain' as he checks my ticket, smiling in what I hope is a normal way, before taking a regal sip from my coronation souvenir paper cup.

Royal sources suggest that King Charles III enjoys a martini or a whiskey while travelling, but it's not quite 8 am, so I'm sticking with the soft drinks for now.

I'm on the way to Llandovery, Wales, and more specifically, the ridiculously pretty village of Myddfai. It's known to be a beloved holiday retreat for King Charles, so I've set off to holiday like a monarch for the day.

My crown earned me a few puzzled looks (Julia Banim)

The now King purchased the Llwynywermod estate in Myddfai for an estimated £1.2 million back in 2007, and it's understood that this place is a real haven of tranquillity for him and his wife, Queen Camilla.

It's here where the royal couple can enjoy plenty of hiking, reading, and general peace and quiet, away from the day-to-day pressures of their public roles.

During my own mini getaway, I'm following King Charles' reported travelling traditions as closely as I can without the help of my own private entourage.

King Charles is said to have some unusual travel requests (Julia Banim)
I like to think my fellow passengers appreciated my makeshift gallery (Julia Banim)

According to Tina Brown's 2022 book The Palace Papers, King Charles likes to travel with two pictures of Scottish landscapes, and some Kleenex Velvet lavatory paper. It just so happens, I'm fresh out of loo roll myself, so this purchase couldn't have come at a better time.

Likening his various travelling paraphernalia to "the baggage train of a Tudor traveling court", Brown also reports that Charles takes his own bed with him, plus a toilet seat. Travelling with such cargo was quite the stretch on a Transport for Wales train, so I decided to skip these luxuries on this occasion.

You'll need a big suitcase if you want to travel like King Charles (Julia Banim)

The sun is shining when I hop off at Llandovery train station, and, having just zipped down from Manchester, I'm struck by just how blissfully quiet everything is.

After a short walk into the centre, the former Prince of Wales' presence becomes felt. Coronation regalia decks out the picturesque post office, while a garage displays a portrait of the septuagenarian monarch as a younger man.

Llandovery certainly has the air of history about it on every corner. The ruins of the late thirteenth-century Llandovery Castle sit proudly atop a small hill, above a number of lively gastropubs in all colours of the rainbow.

Coronation displays were on show throughout the town centre (Julia Banim)
The town looked impossibly beautiful on a sunny April morning (Julia Banim)

I march onwards to Myddfai, which is reachable via an eight-minute drive from Llandovery centre, or a one-hour 15-minute plod through the countryside if you're feeling energetic and trust your WiFi.

As the town streets melt away into abundant, glorious greenery, it becomes increasingly clear why King Charles feels so very relaxed here. The grass shimmers like water, and I suddenly feel as carefree as anyone can be when they've got a loo roll tucked under their arm.

The king's presence has attracted tourists (Julia Banim)
The ruins of a castle overlook the town centre (Julia Banim)

Myddfai is a sleepy village of just 400 people, but it's become a bit of a go-to tourist spot for royal spotters in recent years. Locals will regularly see visitors strolling about, hoping for a glimpse of the off-duty King, and will often have to field nosy questions about what 'he's really like'.

I make a stop at Myddfai Community Hall & Visitor Centre, an energy-efficient hub opened in June 2011 by King Charles and Queen Camilla. In 2017, Charles returned to the centre to unveil a special stained glass window inspired by Welsh legends.

The facility reflects many of Charles' personal interests, with the teas and soaps in the gift shop inspired by herbal remedies once recommended by the 13th Century Physicians of Myddfai.

I can attest, it also does a deliciously comforting cawl - a very hearty traditional Welsh stew - served with a crusty baguette and plenty of Welsh cheese and butter.

Unsurprisingly, the hub is now looking forward to hosting a coronation party, where they'll be raising a toast to their long-time supporter and most famous patron.

The centre serves a delicious traditional cawl lunch (Julia Banim)
Charles opened the hub in 2011, and is said to be a great supporter (Julia Banim)

Even though His Majesty is only a part-time neighbour, it's understood that he's played a significant role in the community. He's previously donated a defibrillator to the village hall and has reportedly contributed to Christmas raffle collections.

It's a friendly place, where people happily approach me to say hello as I take a post-lunch stroll, if only to ask why I'm carrying a long, velvet 'coronation cloak'.

There's also clearly a lot of warm feeling toward the new King, who one local, who preferred to remain anonymous, describes with genuine affection as "a very good neighbour".

Charles is said to be a 'very good neighbour' (Julia Banim)
King Charles' love for Myddfai is said to 'stem from heritage' (PA)

Reflecting on Charles' enduring love for Myddfaid, this same individual remarks that this personal interest "stems from heritage", with Myddfai being a "deeply agricultural, Welsh language community".

Another unnamed local claims to have seen Queen Camilla herself walking about the tranquil streets, just as if she was any other country-loving woman unwinding on her holiday.

There are, unfortunately, no royal sightings for me as I made my way to St. Michael's church. The only other person I encounter is a dogwalker who practically makes me jump out of my crown after emerging, suddenly and silently, in the old graveyard.

King Charles will attend services at St. Michael's, just like any other parishioner (Julia Banim)
St. Michael's dates back to the 14th century (Julia Banim)

King Charles is known to attend services at St. Michael's during his stays here and will do so without any fanfare.

The Anglican church is imposing enough to impress even those used to living in palaces.

A grade I listed building built from solid stone, it's thought St. Michael's dates back to the 14th century, with the parish registers dating right back to 1653, as per the National Churches Trust.

Located on a narrow street so quiet you can hear footsteps a road away, St Michael's is a world away from Westminster Abbey, where the coronation will take place. It's clear to see, however, why it also holds a special place in Charles' heart.

I make my way back to Llandovery town centre, which really is no easy feat when there's just one taxi service in the surrounding area, but a kind-hearted local couple take pity and help me out.

I sit amid the ruins of the castle and feel a certain sadness to be leaving such an absurdly beautiful place, which of course quickly dissipates when a family catches me in the act of taking a selfie with a roll of toilet paper.

Holidaying like King Charles has clearly done me the world of good, but I might travel a little lighter next time.

Do you have a story to share? Email us at julia.banim@reachplc.com

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