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The Independent UK
The Independent UK
Lucy Smith

I found a desert oasis by Egypt’s Red Sea that combines comfort with adventure

With the Red Sea as its backdrop, Somabay is a serene escape from the hustle and bustle of Cairo's tourist scene - (Somabay)

Outside my room’s window lies all the usual trappings of an all-inclusive: a large, inviting swimming pool; clear-blue shores; guests milling about with cocktails in hand. But I won’t be spending the day at my hotel – the best activities lie outside of its golf course’s perimeter.

The Cascades Golf Resort, Spa and Thalasso is approximately 300 miles south of Cairo at the centre of Somabay, Hurghada’s manmade gated beach destination.

You might think of Somabay as the sort of place travellers seek out to “fly and flop”, but I’m not one to stay put on a sunbed. Rather, I’ll be exploring the Red Sea’s vibrant coral bed, detoxifying my skin in the mineral-rich waters of a 20-year-old thalassotherapy spa and trying my hand at wind foiling.

The hotel's all-inclusive comforts are waiting when I return, but it's Somabay marina – with its restaurants, bars and sunset views – that calls my name.

Here is everything I got up to at the Cascades, from exploring the famed depths of the Red Sea to sampling the culinary delights of the marina's food scene.

The sunset at Somabay is an impressive sight (Somabay)
The sunset at Somabay is an impressive sight (Somabay)

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Marvel at marine life by snorkel or scuba

Somabay is renowned for its diving, with its remarkably healthy coral reefs supporting turtles, rays, lobsters and countless tropical fish. Having dived the Great Barrier Reef, I'm impressed by just how vibrant the marine life remains.

On day one, I explore the site as a snorkeller aboard one of the many vessels heading out into the bay. Our skipper Ibrahim (from Happy Turtle Soma Bay) drops us off at the Tobia Arbaa dive site, also known as the seven pillars. The site takes its name from seven column-like coral formations, the tallest descending around 15 metres. As soon as I slip beneath the surface, I spot puffer fish, trigger fish (giving them a wide berth) and starfish clinging to the coral.

Tobia Arbaa is best suited to confident swimmers because of its depth, while the nearby Tobia Hamra site offers shallower water that's ideal for beginners.

Marine life thrives within the protected Somabay peninsula (Somabay)
Marine life thrives within the protected Somabay peninsula (Somabay)

Explore the bay by board and sail

On day two, I swap mask and snorkel for a helmet and life jacket, ready to experience another of the destination's natural assets: the wind.

Vast stretches of shallow turquoise water fringe the shoreline before giving way to the deeper reefs beyond, allowing snorkellers, divers, kitesurfers and wind foilers to share the same bay. At the Duotone Pro Center, I opt for windfoiling – a sport that looks considerably easier from the beach than it does on the water.

After a few hours with my patient instructor, I confirm that windfoiling is far harder than it looks. There are plenty of bellyflops, but the moment the board lifts clear of the water, I understand the appeal. Around me, experienced riders skim effortlessly across the bay.

From March through November, the thermal breeze at Somabay ensures good conditions for keen kitesurfers (Somabay)
From March through November, the thermal breeze at Somabay ensures good conditions for keen kitesurfers (Somabay)

Trade wind and waves for mineral-rich thalassotherapy

After a day being knocked about by the waves, I turn to a rather different kind of water pressure at The Cascades thalasso tonic pool.

In the 750-square-metre hydrotherapy pool warm mineral-rich seawater, massage jets and current channels promise recovery after a morning on the water. Whether it's science or simply due the hour spent floating, I leave feeling refreshed.

Swap poolside towel wars for seaside tranquility

The Cascades operates its own beach club, a short (free) shuttle ride from the hotel, complete with palm-fringed loungers, bedside wait service and a picturesque beachfront restaurant. Better still, food, drinks and local alcohol are all included, making it easy to spend the day without returning to the resort. Given how quickly the main poolside beds tend to fill up, you’ll be glad to have another base at your disposal.

The afternoon slips by between swims and cold drinks before I walk to the marina. The 20-minute coastal walk passes resorts, shops and the occasional camel waiting to take tourists along the beach. It feels worlds away from the enclosed, almost locked-in atmosphere of many all-inclusive destinations.

Nearby, Wyte Beach Club offers whitewashed decor, shaded cabanas and cocktails overlooking the sea, with chilled music replacing the livelier atmosphere elsewhere along the coast.

Enjoy a slower, sun-soaked pace at Wyte Beach Club (Somabay)
Enjoy a slower, sun-soaked pace at Wyte Beach Club (Somabay)

Read more: Southern Sinai’s secluded beach camps offer a different side to Egypt

Book for the beach break, stay for the marina nights

As the heat of the day dies down, Somabay marina gradually fills with life. By the time I arrive, the waterfront begins to buzz, as diners settle in for the evening and groups gather around the harbour to watch the sun start its fiery descent over the distant Jabal Sha'ib El Banat peak.

My first stop is Sobar Rooftop for cocktails, with its elevated terrace offering an ideal vantage point for the sunset. Looking out across the Red Sea as the mountains fade into a dusky silhouette, it's easy to see why people linger here long after their drinks have arrived.

Next, it’s dinner at Kokomo, where smoky, flame-cooked dishes make the Wagyu worth the splurge.

Back at The Cascades, the evening entertainment is underway and staff greet guests by first name, giving the resort a welcoming feel that many larger properties lack.

The Cascades Resort has 166 guest rooms (Somabay)
The Cascades Resort has 166 guest rooms (Somabay)

It’s more traditional than newer Somabay resorts, but boasts spacious rooms, attentive service and golf course views.

Before arriving, I'd assumed Somabay was somewhere people came to switch off beside a pool. After just four days exploring its reefs, beaches and waterfront, I realise that's only part of the story.

Cairo may be only a short flight away, but you don't have to venture to Egypt's ancient pyramids to experience a sense of place. Here, it comes in the form of coral reefs, desert-fringed coastlines, marina sunsets and a destination that rewards those willing to venture beyond the gates of their resort.

Lucy was travelling as a guest of Somabay.

Read more: 7 of the best things to do in Hurghada, Egypt – from exploring coral reefs to venturing into the desert

How to do it

Prices for return flights from London Gatwick to Hurghada start at £482 per person with Tui, with transfers from the airport costing approximately £15 to £40 for the 40-minute journey.

Room prices for The Cascades Golf Resort, Spa and Thalasso start at £108 per night for a classic double or twin, including breakfast; or £176 per night for all-inclusive, via Expedia.

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