Every part of the fennel bulb is edible, and the roots, bulb, shoots, fronds and seeds all carry the same intoxicating, aniseedy fragrance in varying intensities. Look for bulbs with stems and bushy tops intact; otherwise, choose ones with some stalks and a few fronds remaining. The fronds can be used like a herb: to elevate a salad, to add to salsa verde or to enhance your evening cocktail with a decorative leaf, thereby adding botanical aromas.
Tall, coral-like bushes of wild fennel populate our countryside and coastline, scenting trails with their seductive perfume, making it easy to identify and hard to resist. In late summer and early autumn, I’ll often pick a head of flowers or seeds to add to my evening meal, as well as to nibble on the way home.
The British fennel season ends around the end of this month, so stash some away by preserving it. Today’s jam is quick, uses the whole bulb and goes with both sweet and savoury dishes: it’s lovely on toast for breakfast or as a chutney with a Sunday roast or ploughman’s.
Fennel jam
1kg whole fennel (ie, 3-4 bulbs)
Salt
375g brown sugar
80ml vinegar
Finely slice the fennel bulbs and thicker stems, put in a heavy-based saucepan on a medium heat and season with a generous pinch of salt. Add the sugar and vinegar, bring to a boil, then simmer for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has evaporated and the mix is sticky and jam-like. Roughly chop the fronds (if you have any), and add for the last two minutes of cooking. Decant into sterilised jars and seal.
