Few trouser trends divide opinion quite like the balloon pant.
Last trending in the late Eighties and Nineties, perhaps better known then as “Hammer pants”, the baggy, voluminous and deliberately impractical-looking bottoms have come back into fashion.
The style has flooded fashion week runways, being the defining silhouette in spring/summer collections for Chloé, Armani, Alaïa and more.
But while designers have embraced exaggerated proportions, many shoppers remain hesitant – unsure whether balloon trousers are chic or one wrong step away from a clown’s costume.
According to stylists, the difference lies entirely in the details. So, here’s how to get the balance right when styling balloon pants this season.
It starts with fit
The biggest mistake people make with balloon pants is assuming the copious amounts of fabric can disguise your figure, and so getting the perfect size isn’t crucial. But in reality, the silhouette demands accuracy.
“The first rule [is] ensure the fit is correct,” says stylist to the stars Deborah Sheridan-Taylor.
“Length is critical, the hem should hit at or just slightly above the ankle. Consider styles with a proper ankle cuff, rather than an elasticated gathered finish, which can take the look dangerously close to Aladdin territory.”
She notes that while the shape may feel unfamiliar, the payoff is worth it.
“Get them right and they offer an elegant alternative to the ubiquitous wide-leg trouser, combining comfort with a genuinely dramatic silhouette.”
There’s also a practical upside – especially in the UK. “They’re also a great trouser option during wet weather, as no more puddling hemline!”
Luxury stylist Oriona Robb agrees that proportion is everything. “Balloon pants are all about well thought-out volume.
“The key is making sure the rest of the outfit feels controlled and streamlined so the silhouette looks fashion-forward rather than overwhelming.
“Paying attention to where the trousers sit on the waist is crucial too, because a mid-to-high rise instantly makes the volume feel more flattering and elongates the leg.”
Cos Barrel-Leg Denim Drawstring Trousers, £85
Arket Bubble-Hem Trousers, £95
Choose contrast on top
Because balloon trousers exaggerate the lower half, the upper body needs to be more pared-back.
“Balloon trousers are trickier to style than wide-leg, or straight cuts, due to their unusual proportions,” says Sheridan-Taylor.
“In order to balance out the exaggerated balloon silhouette, layering close to the body, with knitwear, like a cashmere tank, or fitted tops worn with a cropped blazer, will help contrast the fluidity of the style.”
For a more relaxed approach, she suggests leaning into shape rather than stiffness.
“For a simpler casual approach try tucking a shirt into the waistband, but be sure to undo a few extra buttons, to elongate your upper body, creating a flattering inverted V-shape.”
Like Sheridan-Taylor notes, when outerwear enters the equation, length matters.
“Cropped or waist-length jackets are a stylist’s favourite because they visually ‘cut’ the volume and highlight the waist,” Robb says. “If you prefer something longer, keep it structured and open so you still see definition underneath.”
Massimo Dutti 100% Cashmere Crew Neck Top, £129
Zara Cropped Buttoned Jacket – The Item, £109
Shoes should anchor, not compete
Footwear can either ground balloon pants or throw proportions off entirely.
“In winter, structured shoes ground balloon pants best. Chunky loafers, leather ankle boots with a solid sole […] or even a slim Chelsea boot all work brilliantly.”
Contrary to popular opinion, Robb warns to “generally avoid very delicate footwear like thin ballet flats or stilettos, as they can make the proportions feel off and slightly dated”.
Pointed shoes, however, can work brilliantly to compliment the relaxed silhouette.
“The visual line of a pointed heel instantly creates a sharper […] look, while also helping to elongate the leg,” says Sheridan-Taylor. “Ankle boots are also a great choice, as they meet the boot just at the right point.”
“Don’t be shy to explore chunkier platform style footwear,” she adds. “A chunkier trainer or sandal is a great way to anchor the billowing fabric.”
H&M Pointed Court Shoes in Burgundy, £32.99
Vagabond Hedda Ankle Boots, £145
Don’t forget about fabric and finish
Not all balloon pants behave the same –and fabric choice determines whether the shape feels cool and architectural or messy and unruly.
“Satins and silky fabrics – and even velvet – offer a lustrous finish for eveningwear,” says Sheridan-Taylor, “paired with a silky peplum top and heels for elegant fluidity through the loose silhouette.”
For daytime or winter wear, structure matters. “More structured fabrics make the balloon shape more pronounced, like a cotton twill or gabardine, and can be a more wearable option.”
Robb says the fabric is very much dependant on the weather. “Fabric choice makes all the difference. In the UK climate, I love wool blends, brushed cotton twill, heavy poplin and soft tailoring fabrics with structure.”
She cautions against anything too lightweight, particularly out of the summer season.
“Avoid anything too flimsy, as it can look sloppy very quickly.”
It’s important to contrast your fabrics, so if you’re wearing casual cotton, wool or cashmere, incorporate shine through accessories like statement earrings, a ring stack or layered bangles.
Jigsaw Deconstructed Petals Earring, £28 (were £70)
Parfois Bicolor Rings Set, £25.99
Arket Fluid Velvet Trousers, £119
Zara ZW Collections Striped Barrel Trousers, £49.99
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