Thailand, and its beating heart, Bangkok, caters to all types of travellers, from the budget-conscious backpacker to the super-luxe holiday maker, which is what makes this vibrant city so unique.
After visiting the Thai capital a couple of times at various points in my life, once as part of a round-the-world trip on a seriously tight budget, and another time spending weeks seeking out the temples and cuisine of mesmerising Myanmar back in 2012, it was time to return. This trip, however, would take a look at the more high-end side of Bangkok. And high-end Bangkok certainly is.
Away from the tourist-filled Khao San Road and the hundreds upon hundreds of hostels, there are no less than 34 Michelin-starred restaurants, and a plethora of ultra-luxe boutique stores, as well as gorgeous galleries and plenty of flawless five-star hotels. Grown-up Bangkok has never looked better.
But what undoubtedly makes Thailand and its capital so utterly captivating, regardless of whether you’re travelling in a high-end or low-key way, is its residents. Wherever I’ve travelled in the country, whether solo, with friends, or as part of a couple, Thai people never failed to charm me with their genuine warmth and generosity.
If you act considerately, respect and read up on local customs, and dress appropriately (be sure to cover your shoulders and knees in temples, for example), Bangkok will reward in myriad ways providing exquisite memories.
What to see and do
Begin the day at Moca Bangkok, the city’s Modern Art Gallery, which impresses with over 800 contemporary pieces with standout works by the likes of illustrious Thai artists Chalermchai Kositpipat and Lumpoo Kansanau.
The exceptional art collection, owned by Boonchai Bencharongkul, is showcased as part of a permanent exhibition, but if you time your visit well, you might be able to catch one of the rotating temporary exhibitions. The Bootleg Show: An Exploration of Originals and Alterations just ended, for example.
Then hotfoot it over to the creative and lifestyle space known as Warehouse 30, where an array of arts and crafts vendors from which to pick up quirky ceramics and colour pop handmade soaps crafted with local essential oils await.
There’s also a flawless spa — the ideal grown-up space for Thai massage — and a coffee roaster to help bring you back to life afterwards. Love street art? Nearby Talat Noi overflows with all manner of fun designs and colourful murals, from hyper-real illustrations to painted manhole covers, don’t miss it.
Round off the ideal day in Bangkok by wandering along the banks of the Chao Phraya River, all the way to Wat Phra Kaew (the Temple of the Emerald Buddha) within the grounds of the city’s Grand Palace. Built in 1782, the site remains one of the country’s most impressive landmarks, with a gilded structure housing a 26-inch-tall emerald Buddha that’s one of the most sacred Buddha images in Thailand.
Be sure to admire the Sri Lankan-style golden stupa enshrining the relics of Buddha, too. The deeply spiritual place becomes even more magical as the sun sets and the bright gold dome transforms into a subtler, more magical photogenic shade.
Where to eat and drink
While 24 hours in Bangkok isn’t nearly enough time to get to sample the dazzling array of bites, snacks, and meals on offer, there are a few standout places that impress, whatever your budget. For lunch, Pad Thai is a must, and the city’s hundreds of street-side stalls with low plastic stools deserve a shout-out.
Check out which looks the busiest and head there with ice-cold beers bought from the 7-Eleven (it’s a Bangkok right of passage). Or for great Pad Thai, in more refined surroundings, stroll over to Baan Phadthai, where a tasty deconstructed version impresses both locals and tourists.
Coffee lovers should check out Mountain Goat Coffee Roasters in Chinatown. The streets in this part of the city are all pastel-coloured and supremely photogenic; a calm oasis away from the traffic-filled highways. Family-run, this cute roastery with just three tables offers all the usual coffee variations as well as the must-try signature coffee.
If you’ve still got room for a snack, local-loved Jae Wan is a sweet lover's dream. Offering vast bowls of hot soy milk with ginkgo beans and sesame-filled jelly balls, and Bua Loy (a Thai dessert of coconut milk, sweets, and glutinous rice balls amongst other delights, this low-key cafe is allegedly Lisa Manobal’s fave Bangkok spot, too.
Duet by David Toutain is the eponymous French restaurant by Michelin two-star chef, David Toutain, and is housed in what can only be described as an idyllic nature-filled birdcage with views across Bangkok’s skyline.
The eight-course tasting menu uses Thai and French flavours, as well as intriguing ingredients like hops, combined with European techniques to produce dishes that not only look spellbinding but taste like a dream. The blue crab dish is divine.
For a nightcap overlooking Wat Pho, the crimson-hued Nuss Bar fuses Thai flavours with expert craftsmanship. The result? Killer cocktails and a spot on the world’s ‘50 best’ list.
Where to stay
I usually like to swerve impersonable global hotel chains in favour of small creative spaces but newly opened, The Ritz-Carlton Bangkok impresses at every turn with its flawless interiors and friendly service.
Overlooking Lumpini Park, the sky punctuating hotel offers deluxe bedrooms and suites boasting plush wooden flooring, thoughtful placements (there’s no looking for a plug socket or light switch here) and Japanese style toilets — you don’t even have to lift the seat or flush, it’s all automatic. Bathrooms have double sinks, deep soak tubs and spacious rainfall showers as well as full size Diptyque beauty products (Philosykos scented) and brand new shiny Dyson hair dryers.
For breakfast, head to Lily’s, a photogenic cafe and dining space with three distinct sections. The coffee shop area is uber relaxed and has everything you need to start the day on the right foot; cold pressed juices, Thai coconut lattes, incredible pastries and Thai Tea Waffles served with Nam Dok Mai mango and whipped cream.
While the mid-section, close to the kitchen features sumptuous fabrics and accents of bold jewel tones.
Aside from Lily’s where it is all too easy to while away the hours, the hotel’s epic swimming pool is best visited in the afternoon, from where it’s possible to witness one of the most beautiful dusky city sunsets.
The service here is second to none, ensuring guests are never without cool towels, fruit skewers or sunscreen and the pool is vast and utterly beautiful, making it seriously hard to leave. You might just need another 24 hours in Bangkok just to make the most of it.
Details
Double rooms at The Ritz-Carlton Bangkok from £390 per night on a B&B basis. ritzcarlton.com
