Citrus trees can produce fruit for many decades but they need to get off to a good start.
Brent Whiter, ABC South East NSW's gardening expert, says the site needs good soil and a minimum six hours of sunlight.
He digs a hole around half a metre deep and uses a soil pH testing kit to check if the soil is too alkaline or too acidic.
Too alkaline means a high pH value, which is corrected by adding things such as compost and manures.
More commonly, the soil might be too acidic, with a low pH value, which can be corrected by adding lime or dolomite.
Brent mixes the soil with an equal amount of citrus planting mix that contains a wetting agent and fertiliser.
"In its early days, the planting mix is the best way the boost the root system along," he said.
He fills the base of the hole so the plant will sit high.
Brent explains that citrus trees are "surface feeders".
He carefully teases out the young root system bound by plastic for transporting so the roots are free to spread out in the new location.
It's important to position the plant so that the graft, or bud union, towards the base of the trunk, is about 100mm above the ground.
If it's buried then the root stock (below the graft) will start to grow.
Brent packs the soil around the plant to hold it firmly and then ties it loosely to a garden stake to stabilise it in winds.
It's important to prevent the stake from touching and damaging the bark of the trunk.
Brent advises keeping the tree staked for the first couple of years, and also pruning away any fruit for the first two years so that all the tree's energy goes into establishing a strong root system and structure.
Also prune any leaves that show signs of leaf miner (insect larvae).
Water deeply, under the foliage rather than above, once a week in winter, or twice a week in summer.
