Five years ago, “smash” was something you did to avocados. Now it’s the burger world’s battle cry. In London, you can barely walk three streets without catching the scent of beef meeting hot steel – crisp, craggy-edged patties stacked in brioche buns, dripping cheese like they’re auditioning for TikTok.
Supernova has queues snaking through Soho. Junk’s messy, melty creations are going toe-to-toe with the capital’s OG burger joints. Shoreditch’s Dumbo – the Parisian cult hit that landed in June – is turning out the kind of burgers that make people cancel dinner plans. Even SMSH BN is here, hammering home the point: the smash burger isn’t a fad, it’s a takeover.
And yet, this “new” obsession is anything but. MEATliquor has been smashing since 2011, and the method itself dates back to the Great Depression in America, when cooks flattened patties to eke more flavour out of less meat. It stuck, became a diner staple, and somewhere along the way, someone realised it’s also pure theatre – a hiss, a sizzle and the instant transformation of humble beef into something irresistible.
With National Burger Day landing on 22 August, there’s never been a better excuse to skip the queues and make your own. Abbie Hendren – rising-star head chef at Sam’s Waterside in Brentford and Sam’s Kitchen in Hammersmith and Chiswick – has been serving smash burgers every Thursday, Friday and Saturday to West London devotees.
Here, she shares her no-nonsense tips and a foolproof recipe for recreating that perfect smash at home.
Top tips for the best smash burger
How to make a smash burger at home
Ingredients:
For the patties:
250g ground beef (ideally 20% fat and chuck or brisket blend. We like to use our special blend from HG Walters, our friendly neighbourhood suppliers, but your neighbourhood butcher will be able to help you)
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper
Neutral oil or beef dripping for cooking
For burger sauce:
500g mayonnaise
180g ketchup
100g French mustard
1 finely diced onion
Salt and pepper to taste
For assembly:
2 burger buns (brioche or potato buns work well)
4 slices American cheese (or cheddar if you prefer)
Sliced pickles
Shredded iceberg lettuce (optional)
Sliced onion (optional)
Burger sauce
Method:
1. Divide the beef into four equal portions (around 60-65g each) and gently roll into balls. Don’t overwork them – you want them just held together.
2. Heat a heavy cast-iron skillet or griddle over high heat until it’s smoking hot. Lightly oil the surface.
3. Place the meatballs in the pan and immediately smash down with a heavy spatula or burger press until very thin (about 1cm thick). Use baking paper between the press and the meat if needed. Press hard for max crust.
4. Season generously with salt and pepper. Let cook undisturbed for 1½-2 minutes until crispy, brown edges form.
5. Flip the patties once – they should release easily if properly seared. Place cheese slices on top and cook for another 60-90 seconds until melted.
6. While the patties finish, toast your buns in the pan (cut side down) until golden.
7. Spread burger sauce on the buns, layer two cheesy patties per burger, and top with pickles, lettuce and onion if using. Crown with the top bun.
