Dessert doesn't really feel optional at lovely Coquille in Vancouver, British Columbia _ not after watching slice after slice of something beautifully crowned with a fluffy cloud ferried to every table around. The server said it was banana cream pie, which has never been my first (or even second) choice, but it looked incredible. What kind of fool would deny such a pie? As I later learned, attempts to take it off the menu have failed in the face of patrons' protests. And indeed, it turned out to be extraordinarily good: rich but light, perfectly banana-y, a tropical luxury that's now been on my mind since summertime.
Coquille's executive pastry chef, Hilary Prince _ also in charge of the desserts at renowned Vancouver sister restaurant, L'Abbatoir _ rethought every element of the classic banana cream construction. Her goal: "Just to make the best banana cream pie that I could imagine," she says. "I had no idea that it would become as popular as it has, and now it seems I'm stuck with it!" It's made with slices of fresh banana and a homemade caramelized banana jam, plus a layer of vanilla pastry cream, and the topping's got white chocolate incorporated into its fluffy heaven.
Furthermore, the caramel sauce contains an ingredient so good, it's illegal in the United States: tonka beans, beloved by haute chefs, deadly in high concentrations. Reminded that we can't get it here (except, psssst, maybe online), Prince said, "Poor you guys!" and kindly offered a substitution: the seeds of one vanilla bean. Alternately, she's also been making an orange-clove caramel "for a little seasonal change," perfect for a holiday pie _ same recipe, but infused with whole cloves instead of the tonka (or vanilla) bean.
While Prince has simplified the process for the home cook _ she makes her own graham crackers for the crust _ this is still quite a pie project. She agreed that one could make regular chantilly cream instead of white chocolate, or buy some nice caramel sauce instead of dealing with homemade. Even then, this pie would be a standout among pies, promising to remain in the memories of those lucky enough to get some.
