Getting you and your pad kitten-ready need not be a drama, as long as you get to grips with just what they need to feel safe and secure. Understanding how young cats work is the key to making their transition from kittenhood to a much-loved family member as smooth as possible.
“Do you need eyes in the back of your head? Maybe,” laughs registered feline behaviourist, Lucy Hoile. “But knowing how a kitten matures helps us understand their behaviour, which means fewer surprises (hopefully) and you can build a solid foundation for a lifetime of wonderful feline companionship.”
Finding your new kitten
If you are responding to an advert for a kitten, there are a few pointers to be aware of to ensure you are buying from a reputable breeder.
“Unlike dog breeding, there isn’t the same legislation in place for cats, so it’s best to ensure you can see the mother and her litter,” explains Hoile. “Expect to be asked a lot of information about your home setup – a caring breeder will want to know where their kitten is going.”
Equally, most animal shelters have lots of unwanted kittens that need rehoming, so it is often a great place to start your search. Try the RSPCA, Cats Protection League, Battersea Dogs and Cats Home or Blue Cross for more information.
Prepping your pad
Inside, tape up any gaps that could intrigue your new kitten, such as that tiny space in between your washing machine and tumble dryer. “It’s incredible the tiny gaps your kitten can squeeze through, so better safe than sorry,” says Hoile. “Kittens are programmed to explore – they’re hunters by nature, so every new thing is an adventure. In these early weeks they have less fear than when they are a little older – they really are fearless.”
You may also have noticed by now that cats can climb, so don’t presume your fencing will retain them. Kittens won’t be as strong, but they can still scale a decent height. Ensure you can keep your kitten in until they have had their first set of vaccinations (about eight weeks), before letting them explore the area around their new manor.
Tip: Discuss neutering with your vet as soon as you bring your cat home – a female cat can get pregnant at around six months and an unneutered Tom is not an ideal family pet.
Getting the right kit
When it comes to shopping, less is generally more, but some specific kit is essential for settling in a kitten. “You do need to buy kitten-sized kit,” advises Hoile. “It may sound obvious but a high-sided litter tray will prevent a kitten from using it, the wrong-sized litter will be sore on a kitten’s paws and a food bowl that’s too deep will deter it from feeding adequately,” advises Hoile.
As a starter kit you will need:
- A litter tray – in the wild, cats pee and poo in different places, so two trays are better than one.
- Food and water bowls – one of each per cat.
- Litter – unscented.
- A cosy cat bed – but a cardboard box will do.
- Scratching post – it will save your furniture.
- High-level scratcher and tree toy.
- Food – ask your breeder/animal shelter what food they have been used to and follow suit, but make sure it is tailored for kittens.
- Grooming – ensure you get a comb that is right for the type of coat your kitten will have.
“Buying a climbing/scratching/hiding kit might seem excessive, but it’s not,” says Hoile. “Kittens climb, explore and want to hone their physical ability, if they don’t have something to climb they will shoot up your curtains, along your carpet, round your sofa … they’re programmed to train their bodies, so they need an outlet to do it.”
Feeding
“Kittens need to be fed little and often,” says Hoile. “Ask your breeder what foods your kitten has been used to and follow suit, making sure it is age and weight appropriate. If in doubt, ask your vet.”
Myth buster: kittens and cats should not be given cow’s milk. “They can’t tolerate it and it’s a myth they crave it,” says Hoile. “Kittens and cats need fresh water; in the wild they would drink from fresh running water, so they prefer to drink water fresh from the tap. Wet food is good for cats as it contains water – cats need water in their diet as they often have kidney and urine issues in later life without adequate quantities.”
Worming and vaccinations
A responsible breeder or animal shelter will already have wormed your cat or will raise the issue of vaccinations with you.
“Once you have your kitten, book a visit to your vet as soon as possible. Many vets hold kitten days now, they will check your kitten’s health and weight and advise on the worming, flea and vaccination programme. It is also a great way for your kitten to get accustomed to a vet’s visit. The more they are exposed to as kittens, the easier they will be to handle as adults.”
Grooming
Grooming isn’t just for a sleek coat, it also helps us get to know our cat’s physical shape and allows us to spot any health issues as soon as possible. Short-haired cats need grooming once a week to ensure the coat is kept free of dead hair and it helps you to bond with your cat. Longer-haired cats, such as persians, need to be groomed daily.
“Otherwise, the damage to their coat and their skin can be devastating,” says Hoile. “Long-haired varieties very quickly get matted and this causes problems that go beyond just a matted coat – it can lead to skin infections and more.”
House-training
If you get your kitten at between eight and 12 weeks, they will probably have been litter trained already.
“Provide a kitten-friendly tray, with kitten-sized litter and ensure it is kept clean and accessible at all times,” says Hoile. “If your kitten isn’t using it, chances are it’s not big enough, not clean enough, or the litter is either a) too highly scented or b) too big for the kitten to rake easily.”
Cats are very clean animals by nature. Once your kitten is old enough to go outside, move the litter tray outside during the day and, at night, leave a clean litter tray by the door.
Going outside
Your kitten should be vaccinated before it ventures outside under supervision. International Cat Care recommends your kitten is four months old and also neutered before going into the great outdoors on its own. Most vets will microchip your kitten when they are neutered, before then a kitten safety collar with a name tag is a good idea just in case they escape – and it’s not the worst idea to keep a safety collar with a home address disc on, especially in these early days. When they are ready to go outside, monitor short trips into and around the garden/surrounding spaces.
Tips for a (relatively) stress-free first-timer:
- Keep outdoor sessions short and sweet.
- Do it just before feeding time.
- Let them explore on their own terms, in their own time.
- Use food to call them home.
Of course, not all cats love the outdoors, some are happier as house cats – if you’re unsure what’s best for your cat, speak with your vet.
Whether they’re in, out or – most likely – all about, an energetic new cat needs food tailored to them. Royal Canin provides nutritionally complete, age- and breed-specific diets for optimum feline health
