I’ve tried to grow a few vegetables in my life with varying success. I’ve planted pumpkins only to see them beheaded by slugs, brassicas that failed to appear and radishes that were too tough to eat. But my experiences with courgettes are very different. The vines always grow large and bear plentiful edible gifts. Just one plant in a flower pot will give generously, and not just the courgettes themselves – the vine is delicious, too, while the flowers are a delicacy when stuffed with cheese and battered, or just torn over a salad, as in today’s dish.
In fact, even the stalky top of a courgette is edible when fresh. It has a similar taste to the courgette, but with a subtle oystery-ness to it. The vine stem and leaves carry this same delicate flavour, and are delicious sauteed in olive oil and garlic, chopped into a stew or even used like tacos to wrap a filling.
Barbecued courgettes with yoghurt
This is a good way to use up old courgettes, because the whole exterior is charred, much like an aubergine for baba ganoush, so you don’t notice any imperfections of age. Lay one courgette per person on a hot barbecue (or griddle), and cook on each side until slightly but evenly blackened all over. Roughly chop, gently crush, then season. Put on a platter, then splatter, Jackson Pollock-style, with yoghurt, honey, lemon juice and crushed toasted nuts. As an optional extra, roughly chop a large courgette leaf and stem (or a few pak choi leaves), wilt in hot olive oil, then scatter on top. Finish with a few torn courgette flowers.
•Tom Hunt is a chef, food writer, sustainability campaigner and founder of Poco Tapas Bar in Bristol
