How to eat that decorative squash on your table with Parmesan, brown butter

This time of year, you can find all kinds of squash and gourds at local grocery stores, far more than the variety found just 10 or 15 years ago.

Some of those squash might be sitting on your kitchen table right now.

This recipe from "David Tanis Market Cooking: Recipes and Revelations, Ingredient by Ingredient" by David Tanis (Artisan, $40) is similarly versatile. You could use butternut or acorn squash instead of Hubbard; all of them pair well with the Parmesan and brown butter.