There has been an increase in the public’s awareness of the environmental impact of waste and pollution, thanks in part to TV programmes such as Blue Planet 2 and the recent mission statement of designer Stella McCartney to overhaul the way clothes are produced.
Consumers are waking up to the impact of their own actions too and are increasingly seeking out sustainable, environmentally conscious businesses. Many entrepreneurs are making wonders out of debris that would otherwise be clogging landfills, whether it’s waste coffee granules, ugly fruit and vegetables, single-use plastics, or the fabric that constitutes last season’s must-have garment.
The coffee that fuels twice
Coffee shops have long been criticised for not doing enough to deal with disposable cups, but it wasn’t until recently that a business was founded to deal with another waste product left over from the coffee run: coffee grounds. Founded in 2013, bio-bean makes biofuel from waste coffee, using some of the 500,000 tonnes of grounds produced in the UK each year. The company works with waste management companies to collect and transport granules – from independent cafes, major coffee chains, universities and more – to its coffee recycling factory, a world first.
“Recycling waste coffee grounds with bio-bean saves companies money and shrinks their carbon footprint,” says company spokesperson Tom Bage. “By rethinking our approach to waste, we can make products like our coffee logs, which outperform the competition while helping the planet.” Bage says that businesses need to hire the best scientists and engineers if they’re looking to make a similar impact in the market. And the key to success? “If you can save people money while also helping the environment,” he says, “you have the core of a great business.”
Making ugly veg beautiful
A number of major retailers and food chains in the UK, such as Co-op and Pret a Manger, have policies to help reduce food waste, however, the problem remains a global one. A third of all food produced globally is wasted, yet almost a billion people go hungry and the labour, water, energy and land that goes towards cultivating the food is also lost.
Jenny Costa founded sustainable food brand Rubies in the Rubble in 2012 after realising the scale and implications of the problem. “Our ingredients have to pass a taste test, not a beauty contest,” she says. The company makes condiments out of surplus produce that would otherwise be thrown away for aesthetic reasons, due to over-forecasting or inefficiencies in storing and distributing.
“Being more resourceful starts with monitoring and knowing where there are inefficiencies, or where you might be wasteful within your supply chain or process,” Costa says. “From there, you can see if it’s avoidable and, if not, what else you could do with that inefficiency or excess. There may be partnerships or other companies who could help or benefit from this surplus.”
One less drop in the ocean
Most people are aware of the scourge of waste plastic clogging up our oceans and landfill, with initiatives to reduce single-use packaging now common and refillable water bottles becoming must-have items. Cornish outdoor clothing brand Finisterre – which turns waste plastic and leftover fabric into high-quality items that are designed to last and be repaired over time – was ahead of the curve.
Founded in 2003, primarily for surfers, the company’s studio overlooks the sea, which acts as a constant reminder of the human impact on the environment, says product director Debbie Luffman. “We’re committed to eradicating single-use plastic from our supply chain and workspaces.” Between 5m and 13m tonnes of plastic makes its way into the oceans each year, according to recent figures. This year Finisterre recruited a wetsuit recycler to put to use some of the 380 tonnes of non-biodegradable waste left over from discarded wetsuits every year.
Luffman advises “green” entrepreneurs not to focus on what you can produce, but instead “look to the root of the problems first – otherwise it’s just more stuff … then focus on making the best quality products you can out of the best materials.”
The unexpected beauty of scrap
Rosalie McMillan, director of Smile Plastics, says her company’s mission is to change people’s perceptions around waste through innovation: “To use art and technology to unlock the hidden potential of recycling, and open people’s eyes to the unexpected beauty of scrap.”
Smile Plastics turns waste plastic – bottles, yoghurt pots, plant pots and food packaging – into decorative panels for the architecture and design industries, creating unique materials for its clients. Not only does its products reduce the waste going to landfill, but the materials themselves can also be recycled.
“Designers increasingly demand sustainable solutions in their projects,” McMillan says, while customers want stylish, ethical items with a unique backstory. Owners of small businesses can play on this to succeed. “Waste materials often have more personality than ‘virgin’ materials, so use this to create products that celebrate that personality and use the narrative to sell the product,” she says.
Making products out of waste can be challenging, however, especially when you have to ensure access to good quality, clean and consistent supplies. “Make sure you’ve got your supply chains set up properly before going to market,” says McMillan, “and have a backup plan if the supply chain fails.”
New life for old jeans
Fast fashion is hard to avoid on the high street, and the fashion industry was recently ranked as the fifth most polluting on the planet. But many brands, such as Stella McCartney, Vetements and H&M, are highlighting the impact of overproduction and industry waste – and modifying their practices accordingly.
Another is Mud Jeans, a Dutch circular denim brand, which upcycles and recycles old jeans. The company uses the jeans that people return as part of its lease scheme and then blends the denim with virgin cotton to create new yarns. “Using less is just not good enough. We have to change the way we consume fashion,” says Danique Gunning, the company’s marketing manager. “By leasing jeans and then taking them back when they’re worn out, we’re engaging customers in a new way of consuming.” Many people are ready to change their behaviour because they know they have to, she adds.
The company says that while having an impressive backstory is useful, the products must also speak for themselves; it learned this the hard way – it won various accolades for its environmentalism at the beginning, but was less well known for its jeans. “People want to change the world, but not their style,” says Gunning. Once they started focusing more on the jeans, turnover increased.
“We have no seasons and our design is minimalistic, with minimal impact on the planet,” she says. “But we optimised our fits and now offer a range of high-quality jeans that everyone should have in their wardrobe. People are searching for a combination of high quality and a company with a good ethos and philosophy.”
